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Since this will be my first winter with a boat, I need some good advice. What do I need to do to winterize my boat?
Second question, I plan on using it a few times this winter to fish at some of the lakes that don't freeze, so do I have to winterize, then de-winterize then re-winterize everytime I want to use it?
It is a 1994 19' fiberglass Gulfstream with a Merc 135 outboard.
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Make sure the outboard doesn't have any water in it around the impeller. Drop it down so it is vertical and crank it a few times. I have also been told that it is best to store it with the outboard vertical, so that water is less likely to get trapped in it. Add some fuel stabilizer to your tank and keep the tank completely full to minimize condensation. Either remove all batteries, or if they are left in the boat make certain they are kept fully charged or they may freeze. If you are fortunate to have it stored in a garage or at least under a carport consider yourself fortunate. If you aren't as fortunate, you need to make certain you have a cover that will be able to handle some snow on it. Mine will handle about a foot of snow, and I keep it brushed off. If stored outside, you may need to provide some extra support for the cover so too much weight is not put on your windshield or it will crack. Make certain to leave the hull plug out so any moisture that might get inside of the boat can drain out. Be certain to remove the display portion of all fishfinders or they will freeze and crack, and while using them, if it is below freezing turn on the backlight to keep them from freezing.
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Its good practice to let your boat sit in the water while still on your trailer for a bout 10 minutes before you start it up. If there is any water that got traped in your outboard and froze it will thaw.
Make a habbit of these suggestions and that is about all you have to do while boating during the late fall and winter months.
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To unthaw is to freeze.
I use my boat all year and all I do is tip my mortor down to make sure all water is out of the mortor, and as long as you run your boat at least once about every 2 to3 weeks and your gass is not mixed with oil you don't need to put in stabilizer. And I keep my boat in a garage.
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Thanks Fishhungry! Great Question. I logged on tonight to post the exact same question. As usual the information and feedback are stellar.
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Thanks for correcting me.
I do agree with Kent about the stabilizer. I use it a couple times a year.
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Stabilizers are a must if your fuel will be in your tank for more than 3 weeks. Also consider a water separator filter or some kind of "fuel dryer" additive in cold weather months because you can have carb and fuel line freezing . [/size][/black][/font]
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For my outboard I use a product called Pri-G. Do a search for it. It is very concentrated and gives all of the benifits of a fuel stabilizer and additive. Like the others have said. Make sure the motor is stored vertical. It is also a good idea to change the lower unit gear oil as it will show you if you have any water in there before it freezes and does massive damage. Also remove the cowel and coat all wires, hoses and tubes with silcone spray. If you are not using it often put the trailer on blocks, it will prevent your tires from flatspotting. You will be bouncing down the road for a while if you take off in cold weather. If you have a speedo pickup tude on the motor unhook it at minimum, blow it out if your anal[  ]. I doesn't hurt also to put a plastic bag over the prop hub to keep out moisture, debris and critters.
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Just wanted to let you all know how much I appreciate all of the excellent advice. THANKS!
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i had my boat winterized at a marina. its an i/o. what do you guys think of putting it on the water and only running my trolling motor? i know some water will get in the outdrive, but that could be drained out easily enough by putting the prop down for a minute when its trailored. with the motor not running and pumping water in- would that be okay? do any of you inboard guys do this?
one more question- why arent inboards built with a radiator like a car? you'd think it would be a lot easier to just have an antifreeze/water coolent in there. is there a reason that water from the lake is used? seems kind of crazy to me.
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In answer to your 1st question you should be alright as long as you don't start the big motor.
they do make boats with an enclosed system. I own a custom weld jet boat which is self contained the antifreeze flows through a heat exchanger which is cooled by lake water. The big difference in getting a enclosed system is the price. Plan on another 7-10 thousand. No kidding.[shocked]
Bodine
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Cranking your outboard without being in the water will do nothing but burn up your water pump. Drop the motor, let the water drain out, and be done with it. Fuel stablizer and changing your oil in the lower unit will complete the job.
If you have livewells or bilge pumps in the hull a little RV antifreeze won't hurt.
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With an inclosed cooling system you still have the exhaust cooling manifold(s) to drain as they are cooled via lake water. These will not be affected by running your trolling motor.
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I have been cranking my outboard for a few seconds, every time I have taken the boat out of the water during the late fall or during the winter for several years, and I have not noticed any damage to the impellers.
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Do whatever you want. Most folks dont realize they have a damaged water pump until it quits pumping water. This guy said he had a 135hp Merc. I'm just telling you what the Mercury manual states.
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Everyone has to make their own choice and definitely should seek out their own expert advice (and I definitely do not consider myself to be an expert on the subject). I prefer to give mine a couple quick cranks, immediately after removing it from the water, rather than risk having water, that will freeze, trapped without doing it. My thoughts are that immediately after removing a boat from the water the impeller will be at least damp and no harm should be done by turning it a few revolutions.
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I just sent an email to Lee of Lee's Marine, and hopefully he responds with his expert advice. The answer is important to me also, for the protection of my own boat, and I certainly don't want to share any suggestions with others that could harm their outboards.
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Thanks Kent, it will be interesting to see what he has to say.
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I just made quick calls, and spoke to a mechanic, at each of the following boat repair shops:
Marine Products
Robertson's Marine
SS Marine
They all said no harm would be done to the impeller if one turned the outboard over for a couple seconds shortly after removing it from the water. One shop said it probably wasn't necessary because most of the water would drain by itself, and the other two mechanics said it was good to do it to remove any trapped water in the impeller. If I hear from Lee I will also post his response.
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That has also been the advice I have gotten for my two outboards. The manuals I have for them specifically say to not RUN the engine without water. But, as any mechanic knows, cranking it over a few times if far different than running it - and, actually, cranking it a time or two is the method employed for several maintainance adjustments and repairs - as long as it is done properly and the motor is not fired up, no harm will be done to it.
Disclaimer: If a person is not comfortable with their mechanical knowledge and or skills, it would be better to have a trained professional do all maintainance and or repairs on thier engines. This is also pointed out in the manuals.
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