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I pretty much feel that a 7' spinning rod is the best length to use. Also a baitcast rod in 6'10"-7'6" are good lengths also. I used my shorter rods in 6'6" & 6' & felt that the shorter lengths were a bit hard to pass in front of the front pontoons. I nearly ran some hooks on the side of the pontoon when I'm reeling in a lure w/ a shorter rods. The longer rods I can reel in a lure or fish & don't feel that the sides of the pontoon will get hooked or spined.
Only dilemma when using longer rods is when you have to bring in a fish close to you, you have to push some of that rod length to the back of your pontoon & have to make sure it's on your pontoon or the rod & reel will be going in the water.
So just curious what rod lengths you guys are using & do you feel comfortable using them. I'm redoing all my rods for this year & going to longer rods for when I use my pontoon boat.
I know some rod mfg's are have come out w/ kayak specific length rods & actions. Haven't tried those out but they seem to be targeting saltwater fishermen than freshwater.
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You are right about the Yak specific rods. Okuma just came out with a few of them. They are in the shorter range but they are made to float if dropped in the water.
My preferrence is a longer but lighter action rod. I used to fish more with just about anything that was thrown my way and started preferring some of the shorter but lighter action rods.
Later on I found that the longer rods were better over all. Currently I use 7' 6" rods up to 9' for most fresh water and salt water float tube fishing.
I also use a 13' 6" float rod. That one works well as a fly rod and can also flip out micro sized jigs.
Okuma makes an excellent 8' 6" 2pc rod. It is the Halogen 450 rod. I love it for light finnesse as well as for lunker Bass.[cool]
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[reply]
"I also use a 13' 6" float rod. That one works well as a fly rod and can also flip out micro sized jigs. " [/reply]
...could you explain this please.. what is this rod used for.. why use this one over a regular fly rod.. what type reel(s) can be used with it.. what type lines etc..
I know.. lots of questions again.. but if I did not ask questions you might get bored.. [sly]
MacFly [cool]
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[cool][#0000ff]First, I have a question. Why do you have to push your rod back on the pontoon to land a fish? Are you handlining them?[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I use a variety of rods, between 6' and 7.5' for tubing...not much different than tooning. I prefer the longer rods for casting small lures and fishing shallow, since the extra length helps with line control...keeping more line up off the surface. Sitting lower in a tube or toon reduces the height of your rod tip so longer rods can help.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]For short accurate casts, with heavier lures, I prefer shorter rods. I also like shorter rods for vertical jigging, especially in deeper water.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When I bring a fish to my craft, I like to use the longer rod to keep them out away from me until they are tired enough to lip or net. Bring them in too fast and they can dive and tangle your legs or anything else hanging off your craft. Or, if they have teeth or spines, you want to control them so that they do not puncture you or your ride.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I keep my rod hand holding the rod until I have the fish in the net or firmly gripped in my other hand. Then, I put the rod handle into an upright rod holder on my rod hand side. I NEVER lay a rod across my craft. Too much opportunity to either lose a rod or at the very least to dunk the reel in the water. That can instantly mess up the action and feel of the reel, as well as creating a need to take it apart and clean it later. Left uncleaned, the water can cause permanent damage to the inner workings.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Rod length is a matter of personal choice...just like your preferences for spinning vs baitcast...or flyrods...etc. But, depending upon the waters you fish, the species you pursue, your own size and physical condition...and your skill level...you may develop distinct preferences. And, you do not need to listen to others who tell you that you are wrong. If it works for you, and you enjoy it, then it is 100% right.[/#0000ff]
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Thank you TD, I was trying to see the problem also.
I fly fish and from a toon I really like my 10', but I use 7' a lot and my toons are 11 1/2' long
Bring the fish up to the side or right down the middle. That is why I also have my motor on the back.
MacFly, most rods over 10' long are made for LARGE rivers (like steelheading or salmon) but also for surf. You can get some distance with the long two handed rods and anymore, the new ones are very light. I bought a 9' 8 weight last year that weighs 3 1.2 oz. It is as light if not lighter than most 5wts.
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[size 1] Quote:I also use a 13' 6" float rod. That one works well as a fly rod and can also flip out micro sized jigs.
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[size 1]Me too! Roll casts beautufully with a micro jig.[/size]
[size 1]God Bless,[/size]
[size 1]Don[/size]
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[black][size 3]My feelings on rod length will cause some disagreement, mostly because it's popular at present to use short wispy rods for both stillwater and rivers.[/size][/black]
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[size 3]I have found that when I fish rivers, I have more control over my line, mending, etc. with a 10 foot rod. If I'm fishing sub surface, I have more control over my line with a longer rod.[/size]
[size 3]I can "straight line" nymphs with a longer rod.[/size]
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[size 3]I have some friends who have fished the long rods from toons, and did not like them. Cabelas had some rods they were promoting for toon fishing, they were about 11 and 12 feet long. My friends broke them when landing fish. You just cant bend a graphite rod double.[/size]
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YOU NAILED IT EXACTLY SABER. I LOVE MY 1O' ON RIVERS FOR EVERYTHING YOU SAID, PLUS THEY ARE FANTASTIC ON WINDY DAYS.
ORIGINALLY THE LONGER RODS WERE TO INTEREST TUBERS (BELLY BOATS), BUT AS YOU SAY, ARM STRAIGHT UP WITH A GOOD SIZE FISH CAN BECOME A TRICK FOR SURE. THEY WILL ONLY BEND SO FAR.
BESIDES, YOU ARE MOBILE IN A TUBE, SO UNLESS GOING FOR HEBGEN GULPERS, I CAN'T SEE WHY YOU WOULD NEED THAT LONG OF A CAST.
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Hey Mac. I use the longer rod for Roll Casting as well as Spey Casting. It is awesome for the lighter tackle.
I do have some short rods too. I have some 4'6" for my vertical jigging as well as a 5' rod. Those are both spinning combos.
I have a 6' ultra light Bass rod that I take out from time to time as well.
Although the Float Rods and Spey Rods are meant more for river fishing, I managed to adapt them into surf fishing from a tube. I am actually well behind the wave and casting into the zone that one tries to get into from the shore.
Sometimes you need to be well behind the wave so that you don't get pulled into it with tube and all.
That is a good way to make a 6 piece rod out of a 3 piece.[shocked]
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[black][size 3] Quote:Hey Mac. I use the longer rod for Roll Casting as well as Spey Casting. It is awesome for the lighter tackle.
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[black][size 3]Amen, TubeN2! [/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]This is not the first time I've noticed that you and I tend to think "outside the same box". The long rod is ideal for cruising down a shoreline with a fixed length of line out. Roll pick up and then roll cast a couple of metres further down the shore. If the trout in my stillwater fishing venue are in the mood to hit the micros on top, I just raise the rod rather than stripping. Remember you recommended to me the mosquito hook for nose hooking twistertail grubs fished weightless? I can really burn those grubs along the surface with my "pseudo" spey rod. Gonna try this presentation for bass this year. I've been fishing too much for trout. It's time to get back into fishing for smallmouth in a serious way.[/size][/black]
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[size 3]God Bless, [/size]
[size 3]Don[/size]
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... so what I am reading here is that longer rods (in excess of 10') are spey/float rods and are primarily used in surf fishing or big rivers for salmon and steelhead..
..since a float is not neccessarily a "spey" or "switch" rod.. does that mean I could use my current reel setup with it and if needed buy a spare spool with the correct size floating or sinking line to use with the longer rod..
.. next.... can a float rod be adapted for use from the shore and since they are a little less expensive than a spey rod (especially with rod/reel/line setup)..
.. if a float rod can be adapted for use from the shoreline of still water what weight rod/line set would be used.. in my case the species would be trout, lmb, catfish, and crappie..
.. lastly .. for now anyway.. if a float rod could be adapted for shore fishing on still waters what type of cast would be used (a spey cast or some adaption of it) .. keeping in mind that in my situation the shoreline has a lot of obstructions behind it that interfere with more traditional casting..
anyway.. as usual my mind races with questions when I see something new on this board.. [  ]
MacFly [cool]
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With the Float Rod as well as a Switch Rod you have some options if you keep your mind open and do the math.
Typically you will use a float reel on a float rod. You can also use any other mid arbor flyrod with modified drag. You can also add a light spinning reel such as the Okuma TCP 15. These will all depend on if you are casting a regular dry fly, a heavy streamer, clouser, popper or even a micro jig.
You can use the same options on the Switch Rod with the added option of an ultra light Baitcaster as well.
The Spey rod which is close to the switch rod will not allow the use of the Baitcast option because of the fiber core position.
The Spey Rod will funcion best with a Mid Arbor Reel such as the Okuma Helio. Unless you have the money for a Ross Momentum Saltwater Spey reel or a Van Staal C-Vex.
As far as casting goes in tight cover you can use the Roll Cast, Spey Cast or the Whip Cast. I have another one that I am working on as well.[cool]
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Amen bro. If it works, don't fix it.[cool]
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..ya realize of course that more than likely you will have to show me what you just said the next time we meet up.. lol
MacFly [cool]
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I have a dumb question.
The technics and long rods you are talking about are for fly fishing, right?
I don't do fly fishing, when in my pontoon I fish for bass and panfish. Someone had sujested to me to get a long rod (10'+) and just use it with live bait going in to the tullies, kind of like crappie fishing with minnows. I do have a 7' and a 6'6" baitcasting and a 7'6" light spinning rod, a 7' spinning rod also. That is what I use when in the pontoon.
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... Ill be honest and say I am the wrong one to answer your question but hopefully one of our more experienced anglers will come on line and answer it..
MacFly [ ]
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...I have a rocky mountain turbine large arbor reel.. would that work with a float rod.. I can buy a spare spool for this reel and load a 7 wt ..possibly an 8 wt line on it without a problem.. with line in mind.. floating or sinking.. ...
yes I know.. more questions.. lol..
MacFly [cool]
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I do know of people that prefer to use Fly rods and reels but load them with mono. For the reach.
I am not familiar with FLOAT fishing, but I think you would be interested in checking out MOOCHING. You should be able to use your spinning reel on that.
Macfly. I can answer for sure that you could use your reel and line on a SWITCH, but I can not answer about FLOAT, and I know you would need grained line for a Spey.
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Thanks, I was guessing the float fishing is using a bobber and the switch was flipping since some reels have a flipping switch. I will definatly do a search on Mooching.
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Ok, I found this:
[size 4]mooching is a method of fishing where the boat is out of gear, or the motor is not running. You are drifting being pushed by the wind and or currents. Bait or various jigs can be used.[/size]
I do something similar to this, when I am rowing to get to where I want to go I let a crankbait in the water with maybe 15-20 ft of line, the cranckbait dives and moves in the water as I row. I think the erratic movement of me rowing must give the lure a great action. I have caught a few fish this way.
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