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[font "Times New Roman"][#000000]Search only turned up one post on this, [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/forum/Utah_Fishing_Forum_C55/gforum.cgi?post=28819;search_string=gear%20oil;#28819"]Cold / Freezing Weather Boating..... [/url] , [/#000000][/font][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/forum/Utah_Fishing_Forum_C55/gforum.cgi?post=28819;search_string=gear%20oil;#28819"][/url][#000000][font "Times New Roman"]but I’d like to hear more from anyone on this. [/font]
[/#000000][font "Times New Roman"][#000000]Just talked to Merc. They said I should have drained old gear oil and replaced it after the last outing of the season to ensure that there’s no water in there to freeze the lower unit. Makes sense. Unfortunately I didn’t do it. Then again, I didn’t do it last year.
I’ll do it this weekend, but I’m wondering how many of you do that as part of winterizing an outboard that’s outside (on the boat) all winter.
We’re talking a 2006 Merc 40 EFI here; 150 hours. Gear oil had been changed as recently as October 2008 anyway. No water in that drained gear oil. Prolly has 20 hours on it since that gear oil change. [/#000000][/font]
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[font "Times New Roman"][#000000]And, of course, the motor sits vertically, not tilted, throughout the winter.
While we’re at it, who removes the spark plugs, puts a little oil in the cylinders, then replaces plugs as well?
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[font "Times New Roman"][#000000]tg
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I just ran Sta-Bil in mine. I was told that i didn't need to do anything else. The boat is kept in the garage all winter. Not sure if that makes a big difference.[cool]
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thx. If your garage temps go below freezing, then you're in the same boat I'm in (yuk yuk).
So you don't change your gear oil after season. I'm betting not many do.
Saturday looks to be a good weather day; I'll git er dun then.
Still want to know who does, tho.
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[font "Times New Roman"][#000000]If it is any help to you here is what I do:[/#000000][/font]
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[font "Times New Roman"][#000000]Change motor oil, run Sta-bil, clean and re-grease the prop shaft and prop, and lubricate any parts I see that need some grease. Then in the spring, I change the motor oil again, then change the gear oil and fuel filter, and run it a little bit at home before heading out. I also keep the outboard on a motor stand inside. I don't know if this is possible for your motor. [/#000000][/font]
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[font "Verdana"]So you don’t change your gear oil after season either. Maybe the difference is you get to keep your motor under cover. Since mine weighs 250 #, I can’t put it on a stand. [/font]
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[font "Verdana"]Thx. This is still on the To Do list for the weekend.[/font]
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I lower the unit and drain water. I run stabilizer through it. It then sits all winter in the mother in laws garage. Never gets below freezing in her garage. 60 horse Mariner. starts up each spring and purrs like a kitten. I will probably due all the fluids again at the end of the season. i have mine done every other year. I also grease all my fitting each spring also on it.
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You should always winterize, just in case. Our last boat ran good for 10 years winterizing it every year.
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I run sta-bil in my gas all year long. Most tanks take me more than a month to burn through. The winterizing process for me it to change the oil in the lower unit; if there is any water present in the oil I tear lower unit down and replace seals and gaskets (impellar as well as long as I'm in there), pull the plugs and coat with seafoam, change engine and lower unit oil in kicker, pull, inspect and repack bearings on trailer (even though I've got bearing buddies), pull all fishfinders (units only, not transducers), pull batteries, pull bow mount electric motor. Then in spring when I put batteries and electronics back in boat I check all lights and wiring on the trailer.
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I always do four things which really protects my equipment, not just boat motors, for years and years.
1. Remove the drain plug for a second or two to check for water in the lower unit & refill as necessary.
2. Run Stabil through the fuel system.
3. Warm up the engine and run fogging oil through the intake to coat the internal components with oil to prevent rust and corrosion due to condensation. Spray a little in each spark plug hole and turn motor over for good measure.
4. Service and fully charge the batteries and if possible, store them inside for the winter.
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Excellent ideas, MJR.
I checked my gear oil this weekend, and had a tablespoon of water in there. Marine Products Parts think that might be too much, so I'm going to have them pressure check the case. Case is supposed to contain 11.5 oz of gear oil. A tablespoon = 1/2 oz.
Also ran stabilizer thru the gas line and did battery charges this weekend.
Love your fogging oil idea; will get some this week.
Really appreciate your list; thx for posting it.
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I have only had my Nissan 18hp for two years now but what I have done and what is recomended in the Manual and by Marine Products is to:
1-Change the lower gear oil.
2-Run Stabil though motor. Then drain any left over fuel from Carb.
3-Change oil and oil filter.
4-Change Spark Plugs.
5-Run fogging oil in each cylander.
6 Store motor vertical (Leave on boat) and wrap with a motor cover and a tarp to protect from the weather.
Mark
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Good info MarkM. I have heard though, that fogging will give you major problems when it is time to start it in the spring?? Ever heard of that?
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I did not have any problems last spring when I started my motor. It blew a little smoke for a few seconds then ran no problem.
Mark
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Is it something that can still be done or a little too late? My boat is kept in the garage FYI.[cool]
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