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My last trip on the water in my newly pimped (thanks TubeDude) fat cat was a fun and successful crappie adventure. I realized that once I had my tube in the water for about 10 minutes, it felt like it could use more air. I checked for leaks and such but didn't hear anything to indicate a leak or see any "magic" bubbles. Since I'm a newbie at this, I figured I hadn't aired it up properly in the first place. I continued to fish for a few more hours and nothing changed so I figure it is still leak free. The downside was that my transducer was up and at a funky angle (still need to warm up that PVC and put a bend in it) more so than usual because of how I had inflated the dang thing.
The manual states that you should air it up to approximately 1.8 psi. Is there a good way to gauge that you have put enough air in your tube? I was worried that too much might cause a catastrophic failure. How do you know when "enough is enough"?
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[quote wagdog]My last trip on the water in my newly pimped (thanks TubeDude) fat cat was a fun and successful crappie adventure. I realized that once I had my tube in the water for about 10 minutes, it felt like it could use more air. I checked for leaks and such but didn't hear anything to indicate a leak or see any "magic" bubbles. Since I'm a newbie at this, I figured I hadn't aired it up properly in the first place. I continued to fish for a few more hours and nothing changed so I figure it is still leak free. The downside was that my transducer was up and at a funky angle (still need to warm up that PVC and put a bend in it) more so than usual because of how I had inflated the dang thing.
The manual states that you should air it up to approximately 1.8 psi. Is there a good way to gauge that you have put enough air in your tube? I was worried that too much might cause a catastrophic failure. How do you know when "enough is enough"?[/quote]
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Archives have some discussion on this. I prefer to use a pressure guage like FG does. Basically you have to overinflate right BEFORE entering the water from 1.8 to say 2.5 psi, especially in very cold water.PVC bodies can take up to 4 psi without a problem, but don't go that high with nylon bodies. You lost pressure because of the cold water shrinking the air pressure, there was no leak. The downside is you have to bleed out some air when you get out of the water especially if the tube will be sitting in the sun. The easiest way is to get a low cost, fast, high pressure electric pump that maxes out at about 2.5psi so you know you haven't gone above that. After a few uses you can pick a section near the pointed tips and by pressing down with your finger and noting the deflection amount, can tell if the pressure is right. Some real die hards have gone to carrying a K pump and adding air AFTER they are already on the water- to get to full pressure.
Pon
[quote wagdog]My last trip on the water in my newly pimped (thanks TubeDude) fat cat was a fun and successful crappie adventure. I realized that once I had my tube in the water for about 10 minutes, it felt like it could use more air. I checked for leaks and such but didn't hear anything to indicate a leak or see any "magic" bubbles. Since I'm a newbie at this, I figured I hadn't aired it up properly in the first place. I continued to fish for a few more hours and nothing changed so I figure it is still leak free. The downside was that my transducer was up and at a funky angle (still need to warm up that PVC and put a bend in it) more so than usual because of how I had inflated the dang thing.
The manual states that you should air it up to approximately 1.8 psi. Is there a good way to gauge that you have put enough air in your tube? I was worried that too much might cause a catastrophic failure. How do you know when "enough is enough"?[/quote]
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You can use a gauge to measure the pressure. I used one of these with my FatCat and use it now with my Outlaw Rampage:
![[Image: 1719_083109_400x400.jpg]](http://images.nrsweb.nrsweb.com.edgesuite.net/image/media/1719_083109_400x400.jpg)
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1719
As for your FatCat going flaccid, haven't you ever watched Seinfeld? What you have experienced is SHRINKAGE, my man. When your rigid, proud float tube hits that cold water, the air inside shrinks, and the pressure goes down. Just like George, when he was in the pool.
Pump it up a little more after the pressure goes down. Also remember to let some out if it sits on shore in the sun.
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Man, who knew Seinfeld would be applicable in so many aspects of life...
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[cool][#0000ff]One of the many things about tubing that you learn by doing. After a few trips you have a better feel for when you need to add a few extra pumps before launching...or when you need to reach back and tap the valve a little to let off some air in the hot sun.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]When I launch on a chilly morning, the first thing I do is air up my tube to the max...tight at the pointy end. Then I sit the tube in the edge of the water while I get the rest of the gear set up. I check the tube again before launching. Sometimes it takes another couple of pumps to get it good and tight.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]One thing you DO NOT want to do is air up your tube to the max in cool conditions and then put it inside a vehicle for the ride to the lake. The air can expand TOO MUCH and cause damage. Better to ride to the lake with the tube mostly inflated but not rigid. It might be rigid when you get there...and will then shrink again in the cool outside air.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Until you really get a feel for it you might want to carry a small cheap pump to add air if necessary. A good firm ride makes a lot of difference in not only how your rod racks ride but how efficient your kicking or other propulsion is too. Better to glide on top of the water than plow through it.[/#0000ff]
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I wait until I'm next to the water before I inflate the tube. I was so paranoid about exploding the thing that I am sure I'm not putting enough air in. I've never gotten it to the point where it actually feels rigid. Definitely sounds like a learn by doing sort of thing.
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I agree with Michael. Although the gauge are a little $$ they are a must. It is like trying to guess the air in a car tire. And like a car tire, not having equal air pressure can and does make a difference.
I can get behind the electric pump with a gauge however. They aren't that accurate. I heard of a Skykomish exploding TWICE because of one of those and the owner finally realized that.
My heavy duty pontoons and tube I air up at 3. And to guess that 3...well not even close.
Another tip if you cannot afford the gauge. Put the tube IN the water while you gear up, then check the air and adjust before setting out. Let the tube climatize with the water.
Same is true on travel. Never inflate your tube to max before traveling. Altitude will also effect the air pressure.
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FG, my pump DOES NOT have a built in guage. It is advertized to go to a maximum of 2.5 psi in seconds and NO HIGHER since it is NOT a piston type. I have checked this repeatedly with an expensive accurate guage and it is always right. So all I have to do is run the pump for 2 minutes and if the toons feel hard, I know I am at very near 2.5 psi, always have been. I agree that some BUILT in pump guages are not good.
Pon
[quote flygoddess]I agree with Michael. Although the gauge are a little $$ they are a must. It is like trying to guess the air in a car tire. And like a car tire, not having equal air pressure can and does make a difference.
I can get behind the electric pump with a gauge however. They aren't that accurate. I heard of a Skykomish exploding TWICE because of one of those and the owner finally realized that.
My heavy duty pontoons and tube I air up at 3. And to guess that 3...well not even close.
Another tip if you cannot afford the gauge. Put the tube IN the water while you gear up, then check the air and adjust before setting out. Let the tube climatize with the water.
Same is true on travel. Never inflate your tube to max before traveling. Altitude will also effect the air pressure.[/quote]
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[quote wagdog]I wait until I'm next to the water before I inflate the tube. I was so paranoid about exploding the thing that I am sure I'm not putting enough air in. I've never gotten it to the point where it actually feels rigid. Definitely sounds like a learn by doing sort of thing.[/quote]
When you get it to the recommended pressure (1.8 PSI IIRC?) it will be quite firm and will perform way better than when it is underinflated.
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The ol' bounce a quarter and get two dimes and a nickel back.
To get both side equal, I still recommend a gauge and it will make a difference.
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What brand (name, cost, where to get) pump are you talking?
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http://www.boatersoutlet.com/inflatorsdeflators.aspx
Either of the 2 yellow airheads listed at the top. Will have to remove the bleeder valve set for 1.5 psi and duct tape holes and tighten hose to reach the rated 2.5psi. I got the 12v high pressure model that came without a bleeder from Cabellas. Click on view button for more info. The 120v model will be more durable and less prone to overheat if you have several toons. Get money back return privileges as the first 12v model only reached 2 psi, but that could be because of loose seal to my hawkley valves. You have to practice removing connector quickly to keep the pressure up there.
Pon
[quote flygoddess]What brand (name, cost, where to get) pump are you talking?[/quote]
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Wow....I guess it gets easier the more you do it.
I have the Rule High Speed Inflator/Deflator which won't inflate all the way, I top off with a K100 and use a gauge.
Did a little video. Took me 1 and 1/2 minutes to inflate a 10'6" boat.
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[quote flygoddess]Wow....I guess it gets easier the more you do it.
I have the Rule High Speed Inflator/Deflator which won't inflate all the way, I top off with a K100 and use a gauge.
Did a little video. Took me 1 and 1/2 minutes to inflate a 10'6" boat.[/quote]
Yes, I just twist and pull out with the pump still running to keep the pressure up- less than 1/2 second to remove. I am looking for a more flexible replacement hose as this would make removal even faster.
It is great not to have the following topping off ritual, or having to worry about overinflation. Disconnect high speed, connect manual and pump, disconnect, check pressure, reconnect and pump, disconnect, check pressure, bleed off excess, check pressure, UGH!
Pon
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I have never had to bleed off. Aren't you voiding all warranties with rigging up that pump?
And I take it you don't use a gauge at all, right?
I don't find fill my car tires a challenge and very many steps, so goes the tube/toon
But from your description, I can see why you tape the holes and what not to the little pump that Guarantees? the right air pressure.
Like I said...90 seconds ( 1 1/2 minutes) You just need to press the K-Pump to the opening...no hoses, same with the LVM.
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[quote flygoddess]Like I said...90 seconds ( 1 1/2 minutes) You just need to press the K-Pump to the opening...no hoses, same with the LVM.[/quote]
Same here, although because I have five air chambers it takes a little longer.
I use the LVM and then almost invariably 20 strokes with the K100 gets it to 3 PSI. I have never had to bleed any off, but I have sometimes put the gauge on and it says 2.6 PSI or something and I give it 3 or 4 K100 strokes.
Not a big deal. It actually takes me longer to open the hood of the car, get the LVM connected, then disconnect the LVM and put it away and close the hood than it does to pump up the boat! ;-)
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I hear ya. I use one of those little Rechargeable 12V batteries. Then turn around and use the battery for my sonar.
Carry the battery and the LVM in a cloth lunch box. Always ready, plus when done, it flattens the boat to cardboard.[laugh]
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I'm not sure why they call it a high pressure pump, but Amazon has it cheaper than
$57
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OF92KA/?tag...9cespr8a_b
I like the LVM pump for inflating and deflating. I'd rather top it off by hand too and use the gauge. And the Airhead drawing 28 amps? Better have the vehicle running.
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[quote michaelnel][quote flygoddess]Like I said...90 seconds ( 1 1/2 minutes) You just need to press the K-Pump to the opening...no hoses, same with the LVM.[/quote]
Same here, although because I have five air chambers it takes a little longer.
I use the LVM and then almost invariably 20 strokes with the K100 gets it to 3 PSI.
OK, I CAN SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING, WHICH IS SIMILAR TO WHAT I DO. THE AIRHEAD PUMP IS RATED AT 2.5 PSI INSTEAD OF 2 PSI FOR THE LVM, SO I JUST DISCONNECT AND AM DONE.
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1707
MY 'TOON ONLY NEEDS 2.5 PSI, SO I DON'T NEED THE 20 STROKES WITH THE K100 TO GET TO 3 PSI. AIRHEAD IS PROBABLY A LITTLE FASTER BECAUSE OF THE HIGHER RATING.
I have never had to bleed any off, but I have sometimes put the gauge on and it says 2.6 PSI or something and I give it 3 or 4 K100 strokes.
I JUST DID IT THE OTHER WAY, WHEN I USED A HAND PUMP PREVIOUSLY. I WOULD JUST GO TO 25 OR 30 STROKES AFTER THE LVM AND THE READING WOULD ALWAYS BE SLIGHTLY OVER, SAY 3.2 PSI. THEN I WOULD SLOWLY RELEASE AIR (BLEED OFF) TO BRING IT BACK DOWN TO 2.5 PSI. EASIER THAN HAVING TO ADD ADDITIONAL STROKES FOR ME, BUT TO EACH HIS OWN.
Not a big deal. It actually takes me longer to open the hood of the car, get the LVM connected, then disconnect the LVM and put it away and close the hood than it does to pump up the boat! ;-)
YES, I JUST HOOK UP TO MY TROLL MOTOR BATTERY AND DON'T HAVE TO OPEN THE HOOD, LIKE( FG ) DOES WITH HER SMALL BATTERY.
I COULD ALSO OPERATE WITHOUT A HOSE SINCE THE AIRHEAD UNIT ONLY WEIGHS 2#. BUT I JUST DON'T HAVE TO LINE UP, AND HOLD UP ABOVE THE VALVE HOLDING THE POSITION UNTIL IT FILLS. THE HOSE IS HANDS FREE WHILE IT FILLS AND THE PRESSURIZED AIR STAYS INSIDE WITHOUT LEAKING WHEN USING A HOSE. NO HARM IS DONE IF THE PUMP RUNS FOR AWHILE AFTER THE 90 SECOND FILL POINT.
[/quote]
See comments above in easy to find caps (sorry). I'm not asking anyone to change, that's just what I do which saves me steps, may not work for anybody else. [  ]
Pon
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