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I'm about to go out and get me a new downrigger, Im lookin for something under 300 bucks, wanted to see what people think the best model to purchase would be. BTW would be mounted to a 17' deep V for kokes and trout
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I use a Sport Troll. I've got a 300 foot cable on it. The arm is only about 30 inches long, and it's very easy to use. The make is Cannon, its got a counter on the side down by the crank. I see them all the time in the spring under $200. The one I have has already lasted 10 years, good rigger.
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I am such a big fan of Penn manual downriggers. You can view the depth from just about anywhere in the boat, unlike most others, and they just don't seem to ever break down. When I fish on the Olympic Peninsula, they seem to be most everyone's favorite. I don't know why that isn't so in this area. If you are going electric, most of the experts seem to go with Scotty. By the way, you can get a relatively new Penn on ebay auctions for 100-150. I would personally stay away from the Cannons. A repair shop in Port Angeles told me that Cannons have the worst record for break-downs, and Penn has the best record. Mike
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I've had manual Cannons and Penns. Both are nice, but I like the Cannons much better since the clutch is easier to use and you can do it with one hand. With the Penn you have to put your rod in a holder and then use your extra hand to relase the clutch. I've had both brands for over 15 years and have never had either break down. The Cannon also has a digital counter and the Penns have a dial which is not nearly as accurate (and I've tested both against my depth finder). I also have one electric Cannon and its awesome. Especially when the fishing is fast. Just flip the switch and the ball comes up....no cranking. The newer Sport Troll Cannons have a high speed (3:1) ratio compared to my older Sport Troll model which was a 1:1 ratio. If you're fishing in deep water (80-120') the higher speed is definitely an advantage. Finally, the mount on the Cannon that you screw to your boat is about 1/2" tall and about 4"x4" square. The Penn mount is about 3" tall and about a 4" diameter circle. I like the lower profile mount myself.
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I picked a Manual Big Jon for twenty bucks. This winter. Cable line and all 200' ft. I am not sure if the guy ever used it.
Now, I just have figure out how to use it.
Idaho
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I personally prefer Cannon DR's but Scotty also makes a good rigger. Penns are pretty much old tech and Big Jon's are mostly used and serviced around the Great Lakes and East Coast.
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I'd stay away from a manual if you do a lot of fishing deep. Otherwise you'll learn to hate cranking that ball up every time the release clip goes off without hooking the fish.
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[quote StacyR]I'd stay away from a manual if you do a lot of fishing deep. Otherwise you'll learn to hate cranking that ball up every time the release clip goes off without hooking the fish.[/quote]
. . . or even when you do catch a fish!
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I have one Scotty manual and plan on getting another as it works great for what I need (chasing kokes and trout).
Spent alot of time digging into reviews online before deciding myself. It seeems that preference is somewhat regional in nature as in one area of the country likes one type while another is preferred elsewhere. Although I do hear the top-end electric Cannons are an excellent choice!
I did see that Cabela's had some of their $200.00+ manuals (Uni troll5 I think) on clearance for like $160.00 or so, but that was a little while ago... Always a fair share on EBAY and every so often on Craigslist.
Good luck with whatever you decide to go with!
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Just get one that has an accurate depth counter, especially if it's an electric. Let's just say if the depth counter isn't accurate, it's possible to bring the ball up too fast and they're not called cannonballs just because they're round.
You don't want to be like this one guy I heard about when I lived near Seattle and took a class at Salmon University back in the 90s. The counter got messed up and so they weren't sure how much line was out and didn't know when to apply the brake. It came up at full speed managed to launch the cannonball right off the boat. The instructor said the snag release gave way when the cannonball hit the end of the arm and 12 pounds of lead went sailing 15 feet in the air. They were lucky it missed the boat on the way down.
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Thanks for everyone's input, sounds like the opinions are pretty varied out there. In the end I went with a Cannon Uni-Troll that was on clearance at cabelas, I wanted to look at some scotty's and penn's but cannon was all they had in stock and I got the display one so it ran me 157 bucks.
I am gonna put braid and a snubber on it, does anyone know how to do the voltage box deal (not even sure what it's called) maybe would not be an issue with braid?
Thanks again folks
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[quote D_Luck]Thanks for everyone's input, sounds like the opinions are pretty varied out there. In the end I went with a Cannon Uni-Troll that was on clearance at cabelas, I wanted to look at some scotty's and penn's but cannon was all they had in stock and I got the display one so it ran me 157 bucks.
I am gonna put braid and a snubber on it, does anyone know how to do the voltage box deal (not even sure what it's called) maybe would not be an issue with braid?
Thanks again folks[/quote]
Good call on the Cannon.
There is no voltage issue as long as you aren't running steel cable. The problem with braid is you will cut off your weights if you get to close to the rocks. That can get expensive. I love my steel as it allows me to bottom bounce the weights to trigger a bite.
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I had 2 of the manual Uni-Troll 10 Cannons that came with my Lund Pro V when I bought it. Never really had any trouble with them but to me they were just to big & bulky & cranking up a 10# ball 60-80' salmon fishing got kind of old after a while. When I sold the boat the downriggers went with it.
When I bought my Lund Alaskan I decided to outfit the boat with 2 Walker Kokanee electric downriggers.
After researching all the different downriggers I discovered the Walkers are the #1 downrigger on most of the charter boats fishing the Great Lakes. The reason being is they are simple & easy to operate & they just flat out hold up.
What I like most about the Walkers is the simplicity & compact size along with the great power they deliver. Mine have the auto-stop feature, I can also "Power Down" with them with out stripping line out of the release, try doing that with your Cannons or Scotty's
The Walkers are right up there in my book & I enjoy using them almost as much as my Terrova I Pilot [cool]
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[quote Lunddude]I had 2 of the manual Uni-Troll 10 Cannons that came with my Lund Pro V when I bought it. Never really had any trouble with them but to me they were just to big & bulky & cranking up a 10# ball 60-80' salmon fishing got kind of old after a while. When I sold the boat the downriggers went with it.
When I bought my Lund Alaskan I decided to outfit the boat with 2 Walker Kokanee electric downriggers.
After researching all the different downriggers I discovered the Walkers are the #1 downrigger on most of the charter boats fishing the Great Lakes. The reason being is they are simple & easy to operate & they just flat out hold up.
What I like most about the Walkers is the simplicity & compact size along with the great power they deliver. Mine have the auto-stop feature, I can also "Power Down" with them with out stripping line out of the release, try doing that with your Cannons or Scotty's
The Walkers are right up there in my book & I enjoy using them almost as much as my Terrova I Pilot [cool][/quote]
My Cannon Digitrol !V's have multiple programmable stops including the 1' below the surface, multiple speeds down and up, a transducer that allows the DR weight to track the bottom without hanging up and a jigging mode. Most important is the adjustable PIC control. I check the current on my wires 3 or 4 times a day and adjust to the optimum current. When it's exactly correct the Kokanee will ping or run into the wires for the current they are attracted to.
Not much on the market can touch that.
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[quote MMDon My Cannon Digitrol !V's have multiple programmable stops including the 1' below the surface, multiple speeds down and up, a transducer that allows the DR weight to track the bottom without hanging up and a jigging mode. Most important is the adjustable PIC control. I check the current on my wires 3 or 4 times a day and adjust to the optimum current. When it's exactly correct the Kokanee will ping or run into the wires for the current they are attracted to.
Not much on the market can touch that. [.img][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/...k.gif[/img][/quote]"]http://www.bigfishtackle.com/...k.gif[/img][/quote][/url]
And for what they cost you I don't doubt it [shocked]
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I bought a pair of Cannon uni-trolls (Manuals) when I bought a new Tracker in 1991. Sold the Tracker in 2002 when I bought my new Crestliner, the Cannons stayed with me and I installed them on the Crestliner. I'm still using them with no problems, I would say that's a pretty good testimony for a pair of Cannon manuals. I also have a Cannon electric to replace one of the manuals with when the wife goes and we are fishing over 40 or 50 feet deep, for some reason she hates cranking the manuals up much deeper than that.[crazy]
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I use Canon Easy Trolls and have had no issues. Only use them for Koke and trout so very rarely going deeper than 40 feet.
Good units.
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I have 3 Big John manual downriggers. I have used them in both the salt and in lakes here in Idaho. They are easy to use, can be operated with one hand, and are very well built. There are a couple of places in Idaho that carry parts for them, and I have purchased parts directly from Big Jon. Their customer service is incredible.
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There has been a few times on Anderson in the past where I have been down 75 feet or so for the Kokes and I will agree with the wife that's alot of cranking to pull them up. I even use my down riggers for the wipers here in Utah and troll at speeds up to 4 MPH at times, the cables sure like to hum at that speed. My buddy has Scotties on his Smoker Craft and I personally don't like them, too damn much plastic.
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