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Hey all I recently went to a lake in Utah with high hopes, but found out my tube had a leak[:/]. I found out just barely the leak is on the seam, and everything I've read seems to indicate that is a hard leak to fix....I have a u-boat 2000, and am hoping to use it next week. I'm aware that I may be able to get it replaced, but I want to hopefully go next week. How have you guys fixed seams, if that is possible?
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[#0000FF]The key is how long is the seam tear...and is it in a major stress area. Sounds like it might have been an overinflation problem...maybe from leaving the tube aired up and in the sun.
Aquaseal will fix most leaks on your vinyl air bladder. It takes a few hours to cure. I would run a small bead over the hole and let it sit on the level for a few hours. Then put a second larger blob over the first one and let it cure for at least 12 hours. There is an accelerant called Cotol you can buy to speed up the cure. But I have found that you get a better patch without the accelerant...and letting it cure naturally over several hours.
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I posted this on your Utah board question, but for those here I copied it here too.
A seam can be tricky. And not all seam situations are the same. If it is just a small leak, try just the AquaSeal. If you think it could use some reinforcement, I have used a thin layer of AquaSeal then a small patch of mesh nylon fabric (not stretchy) with more ASeal on top of it.
TubeDude has also given you some good advise.
Be sure and let the seam dry overnight at least.
A picture of the problem area might help.
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HB:
TD and CP give very good advice.
I've had to cancel a trip because of a surprise leak, so I know the frustration. Letting the tube sit overnight BEFORE, fully inflated has helped me avoid these surprises. I also take spare bladders and valve parts (which are hard to repair or find) if I have a long, thousand + mile trip.
This topic came up before and I posted a slightly different way which I use that has worked for me. I recently successfully repaired a 16 year old Bucks pontoon where the bladder heat seam was punctured and starting to run at a short stress point location.
Old post:
TD and FG are the best and give good advice. I'll add some things that have worked well for me, but have to be done carefully.
Seam repairs are the toughest areas to patch, because of the flexing and heat seal line weakening. Usually I don't use patches unless there is a rip, but sanding the adhesion area helps. I use a dremel tool with a tiny coarse grindstone to roughen inside and around the hole, then clean the area with alcohol/ let dry.
The way I do it is to make sure there will be a small amount of aquaseal on the INSIDE of the bladder at the hole so that it forms a PLUG. Then, even if the aquaseal loses adhesion there is an interior mechanical plug head that can't be pushed out. How to get it inside without sticking where you don't want means you have to be careful. I use a toothpick to enlarge the hole slightly, then push a tiny amount of sealant inside and around the hole on the inside (along the seam only) with the toothpick. If you get any sealant deep on the other inside wall, just keep the two sides separated so you don't glue to the other inside wall. This method has strengthened the seam from the inside/outside and kept it from repeat leaks or running at weak stress points.
Aquaseal UV for quick repairs in the field.
Hope this helps.
Pon
[quote happybob91]Hey all I recently went to a lake in Utah with high hopes, but found out my tube had a leak[:/]. I found out just barely the leak is on the seam, and everything I've read seems to indicate that is a hard leak to fix....I have a u-boat 2000, and am hoping to use it next week. I'm aware that I may be able to get it replaced, but I want to hopefully go next week. How have you guys fixed seams, if that is possible?[/quote]
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