Chasing the Pig

[SkunkedAgain]

So a question I have with set backs is how much does your lures drop from the ball to say a 50' set back?  I'm sure that depends on the lure, so probably no correct answer, but just looking for a ballpark idea?  For instance if you use a dodger and squid will it drop similar behind the ball as it does on the same line out the back of the boat... at the surface?  If that's the case I imagine they drop maybe 3-5' per 50' back depending on boat speed... So if the fish are between 30-40 foot deep we should run the ball at 30' and lure will drop into the center of the zone... does that sound correct???  Thanks J

I guess it depends on the dodgers being used and the length of the clip on the ball. In the early spring, fishing shallow, I have noticed that the smaller sling blades trail up from the ball. Fishing Jordanelle in the early spring with smaller slings, I have to put some split shot in front of the dodger to get it to not plane on the surface if the rigger ball is less than 11' or so down (long setbacks). Recently with 10' setbacks at 35', on lvs it looks like the dodgers (larger slings) are still a bit higher than the ball. Another factor is I use 18" cord seps rigger clips, which with the rods 'loaded' probably put the line axis at least a foot above the ball.

Then talk Kokabow dodgers that are a lot heavier and that probably changes everything - I have lots of kokabow dodgers but haven't looked at them on the scope recently. I know the kokabow dodgers don't plane on the surface without split shot when fished shallow.

While I am out fishing, I try not to overthink it. I put the ball down to where I think the fish should be, use the electronics and adjust until I'm successful and then use the rigger counter to put me back there for the next fish. The electronics show me that the fish will move up or down much farther than I ever thought if they like the dodger you have on.

Good points and kind of what I've always practiced in the past... Drop it to where it looks like you should be, then adjust slightly up and down until you catch fish and then return to same spot for the next one... I guess with some practice you'd get better at knowing your gear better so I think I'll write a prescription that I need to spend more time on the water to figure it out better...  Later J

[dubob]

I think I'll write a prescription that I need to spend more time on the water to figure it out better...  Later J

That's a GREAT idea Jeff!  Go for it!  ?

Here’s another thought you might be interested in; the length of your release clip leader.  I use a minimum of 2 feet.  The main reason is that, for me, it makes it easy to put the line in the clip while standing up normally.  And because I use ultra-light rods, I apply maximum bend to the rods when attached to the riggers so that I can get a maximum hook set force from the rod when the line is pulled from the clip from a fish strike.  Rods with more power (i.e., MEDIUM) can get by with less bend and do the same thing.  This will always put my presentation slightly above my weight depth.  Occasionally, the clip shows up in the sonar display as a thin line above the weight echo.  Precise depth isn’t really important.  Plus or minus 2 - 5 feet works just fine.

When going after kokanee, my first task is to send my Fish Hawk temp gauge down to determine where the ideal temp is for kokanee.  Most authorities consider 53*F to be optimum.  Once I know the depth where 53*F resides, I’ll target that depth (plus/minus 10 feet) and adjust as necessary as the fish start to tell me how I’m doing.  As you gain more knowledge from more experience, you’ll develop your own techniques that work for you.  Good luck and tight lines.  

[SkunkedAgain]

I think I'll write a prescription that I need to spend more time on the water to figure it out better...  Later J

That's a GREAT idea Jeff!  Go for it!  ?

Here’s another thought you might be interested in; the length of your release clip leader.  I use a minimum of 2 feet.  The main reason is that, for me, it makes it easy to put the line in the clip while standing up normally.  And because I use ultra-light rods, I apply maximum bend to the rods when attached to the riggers so that I can get a maximum hook set force from the rod when the line is pulled from the clip from a fish strike.  Rods with more power (i.e., MEDIUM) can get by with less bend and do the same thing.  This will always put my presentation slightly above my weight depth.  Occasionally, the clip shows up in the sonar display as a thin line above the weight echo.  Precise depth isn’t really important.  Plus or minus 2 - 5 feet works just fine.

When going after kokanee, my first task is to send my Fish Hawk temp gauge down to determine where the ideal temp is for kokanee.  Most authorities consider 53*F to be optimum.  Once I know the depth where 53*F resides, I’ll target that depth (plus/minus 10 feet) and adjust as necessary as the fish start to tell me how I’m doing.  As you gain more knowledge from more experience, you’ll develop your own techniques that work for you.  Good luck and tight lines.  

Thanks Bob, lots of good info in there... One thing I haven't done before is the leader on my DR release clip.  I'll have to look at how that is done, I can see it will be a better way to do it... Thanks a bunch... Jeff