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Well, as many of you know or don't know, I bought a new family boat last summer and am just now getting around to making a fishing boat out of it. I've decided to mount a trolling motor on the back of it and at this point I have purchased a 15 horse longshaft Johnson (from a member of this website) and also a Remote Troll Unit (from another member of this website) and finally the custom Remote Troll Swimdeck Mount Drop Bracket, directly from Remote Troll in Logan. (...that part was expensive)
It is now time to mount everything and I just don't do this everyday so I need some advice.
The back of my boat is curved. I can choose to mount the bracket flush to the back of the boat, which will be crooked, or I can make it go straight back in relation to the boat. (See pictures and you will see what I mean. Which way is the proper way to mount it?
My own opinion so far: It looks better when it is straight in relation to the BOAT, not the contour of the swimdeck. But engineering-ly speaking, it will be stronger I think if it is mounted as close to the swimdeck as possible following the contour of the swimdeck...
Anybody ever done this before?
Pics are of the unit hanging from my ceiling of my garage by a rope, I haven't drilled any holes yet.
I'm planning on calling Remote Troll on Monday to ask them what is the preferred and proper way of mounting the bracket.
Thanks!
Randy
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I used to N.ot have E.nough T.ime O.ff to go fishing. Then I retired. Now I have less time than I had before. Sheesh.
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Neto,
I had the exact same decision to make on my SeaRay a few years ago. I decided to mount it straight and not follow the curve of the boat deck, I'm glad I did ( you want equal range in both directions when mounted). Because you'll have a slight gap between the bottom of the bracket ( port side), I would move the backet back enough to allow a bottom mount support to be installed. Your bracket should have come with 3/4" tubing / pipe connector and mounting brackets. If it is too tight to use that method, you may have to fabricate a lower mount support bracket. You WILL need to have some lower support!!! When you have everything lined up, do some measuring on the deck to ensure the holes can align with a backer behind the fiberglass in the deck. Make sure there is a backer ( treated plywood) either inside the deck or under the deck for the bolts /nuts to secure to! I'm sure you know this, but a solid backer under the fiberglass is an absolute MUST! When drilling the holes, place painters tape over any fiberglass area you plan to drill to keep the gel coat from cracking around the hole. It was very nerve racking to drill large holes into an expensive boat, but it all worked out well. When I sold the boat, the buyer wanted the remote troll bracket removed and the holes repaired. I discovered repairing circular holes in fiberglass is very expensive, since they have to elongate the holes to a few inches and put a backer under it, to keep it from cracking. Cost of the hole repairs was more than the Remote troll bracket cost.
One more very important word of advise, Do NOT leave the kicker motor on the bracket when you tow the boat! If you must, make sure it the motor is tilted up and secured with straps to keep it from bouncing. I have seen a few boats with cracked glass around the remote troll bracket because they tow with the motors on or not strapped to minimize bouncing. Also, since it's really easy to remove the remote troll and motor from the mouting bracket, place a cable lock around both. I bought a custom soft sided zipper bag for the motor and placed the motor into the soft sided padded bag for transport on it's side in the back of my truck - worked great.
Good Luck, you'll love the remote troll! [url "javascript: top.editor_iframe.addTag('  ')"][ ][/url]
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When I installed my remote troll I ran the control switch into a flush mounted drink holder from the bottom. When needed I pull the switch and cord out. When not in use I just push the cord back in. This did use up a drink holder, but you should have your cold-one in your hand anyways.
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#ff4040][size 3]I don't have any thing to add about the installation bracket,as my remote troll is bolted to the transom. Sometimes having a o/b is so much easier. One thing I did want to comment on was[/size][/#ff4040][/font]
"[font "Verdana,Arial,Helvetica"][black][size 1]Do NOT leave the kicker motor on the bracket when you tow the boat! If you must, make sure it the motor is tilted up and secured with straps to keep it from bouncing."
[font "Comic Sans MS"][#ff4040][size 3]Is this due to the fact that it would be mounted to a swim platform or you just think it's bad for the bracket as a whole? I agree with keeping the motor from bouncing around ,but with the motor down would put less stress on the bracket ,then it would if it was raised wouldn't it? I have always keep my kicker motor in the down position when trailering. As I always thought the weight was evened out better with the whole bracket supporting it.[/size][/#ff4040][/font]
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I agree with you Kokeking. Leave the motor "down" unless you can use a commercially available "motor toter" to keep the pressure off the motor's own bracket. The motor in the "up" position puts extreme stress on the motor's own bracket which is usually make of cast aluminum pot-metal. If you crack your motor's tilt bracket it is costly. The bracket from remote troll is powder coated steel and a whole lot stronger. If when your boat is on the trailer and the kicker motor is down and you don't have enough bottom/road clearance then remove the motor. But hanging and rehanging a 15hp by yourself can lead to visit to the chiropractor!
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Hey FishN2Dmax,
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the inside of the boat where the bottom of the mount will be. It is sealed off and impossible to get to. I think I can use the transom tie down (show in the pictures) and have access to that on the inside of the boat, but thats it (other than the swimdeck itself, which I do have access to underneath also).
Do you think that one extra attach point (transom tie down) will be enough?
I also like the idea of mounting it straight. Haven't heard back yet from the remote troll boys in Logan.
Randy
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NETO, I think I made a typo on my orginal post, I meant to say you want the motor "part way up " ( so it doesn't drag) and strapped so it doesn't bounce while towing. Yeah..I know I'm probably the only person that removed the kicker motor off of the remote troll mount while towing, but given the cost of the boat, and the high cost to repair the glass, I elected to take my 9.9 HP motor off while towing. For larger kicker motors it is probably not practical to take them on and off.
After looking again at your pictures ( BTW Nice boat), I think you have an ideal situation. The tie down bracket has backer behind it. If you place a screw / bolt into this general area, you should be fine. I wouldn't worry it's only secured one side of the mid-lower bracket, but it should be enough to take the bounce out of the bracket. I don't think you could make a mistake mounting the bracket straight or with the curve of the deck. However, on my boat, I had a concern with mounting to curve of the deck since this would slightly reduce the angle of rotation in one direction. Since the motor is on the portside, the motor will be pointed slightly left to make the boat maintain a straight line course. Mounting the bracket to the curve of the boats swim deck actually reduces the right turn angle and since the motor will be already slightly left to go straight, you will limit your boats right turn angle ( while trolling).
Good Luck and Enjoy that boat!
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Thanks for the replies, I heard back from the boys at Remote-Troll today. They highly recommend mounting the bracket "Straight with the boat" so that the steering is equal on both sides. So I'll go ahead and do that, as has also been suggested on this post. Also, I'm going to go ahead and utilize that transom tie down point to secure the lower mid point of the bracket.
...I wasn't brave enough to drill into the boat yet tonight...so I didn't git-er-done yet.
I'll post pictures of the completed project. By the way, those boys up at Remote-Troll are very friendly to deal with. I ordered a bunch of parts from them to rebuild the unit I bought from a member of this board, and when I sent them the pictures of my situation (same pictures posted on this post) they replied back very promptly with suggestions, and also sent me some free "Remote Troll" stickers to make my restored unit look like brand new!
Hopefully I'll get brave tomorrow!
Randy
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I used to N.ot have E.nough T.ime O.ff to go fishing. Then I retired. Now I have less time than I had before. Sheesh.
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Since the vertical side of the mount is almost touching the back of the boat how about cutting maybe a 2x4 the needed angle to fit right in. Screw it to the vertical side after you paint it and glue on a piece of neoprene to the boat side if the board for protection. Thus making a solid support without drilling into the boat.
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...Thanks Pisces, that is a great idea! I just may do that also.
Randy
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I know exactly how you feel about drilling that first hole in your boat.It sounds like to me that you have a well thought out plan. I have always wondered if a swim platform was strong enough ,to mount a remote troll plate and motor. Since I see a ton of them mounted like that every year,it must work out pretty good.
Good luck with your project and we want to see pics when its done.
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