When's a fish too big to catch on a float tube?

[mykys]

I'm not a skinny feller. 100lbs...200lbs.? What's the heaviest you've caught on a float tube and/or your opinion on the matter?
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, mykys, welcome to our playpen. What a question for your first post. I hope you did not post this from your laptop computer, while being towed out to sea by something huge...wondering whether or not to cut the line.

I started out a couple of times to try to put together a list of records for species caught from float tubes. That is impossible at this time, because there has been no organized effort to collect such records. I hope to correct that within the next few months.

As I am sure you will agree, the total size of the fish is only a part of the equation in what makes a fish too big to successfully handle from a flotation craft. Other factors are the depth of the water, how the fish fights, the tackle you are using, your physical stamina, water and weather conditions and probably several more.

I have firsthand knowledge of sturgeon over a hundred pounds being subdued from a float tube. I also know of salmon and stripers over 50 pounds...as well as numerous big catfish in that range. In salt water, there have been yellowtail over 40 pounds and white sea bass over 50...maybe bigger, but I have not heard of them. The kayakers are better equipped to handle the biggest fish, and they rack up some monsters.

There are a lot of big fish you would not prudently attempt to catch from a craft with thin-walled air chambers. The alligator gar...which gets over 200 pounds...is one example. Smaller but also dangerous would be muskies and even northern pike. And, forget all but the smaller species of shallow water sharks with small teeth. Although I have taken some big bat rays from a float tube.

What it comes down to is the strength and fighting style of the targeted species. Out in the salt water, many of the fish have a tendency to dive into rocks when hooked. Even a five pound calico bass can wrap you around the kelp or swim into a rocky hole if you do not have the "lift" to stop the run. On the deck of a boat you can apply lots of pressure. In a float tube, a hard run against a hammered down drag will pull you over. You have no leverage and nothing but the flotation of your craft to keep you from being dragged under.

On the other hand, you can hook big sturgeon or catfish from a tube, and if you have the time and patience you can wear them down. Of course, if you want to land them and keep them you will have a better shot if you kick into the shallows and get out of your tube for the final ceremonies. I have landed a couple of big flathead cats from a float tube, but the job is better done from solid footing...where you can lead the big fish into shallow water for the conclusion of the battle.

The same is true with big salmon and stripers. If you have a big enough net, you can scoop them from your tube. But, again, the job is easier and less dangerous if you move in to shore first. Big halibut...ditto. Anything up to 15 or 20 pounds can be manageable, but after that you risk having a big strong fish smack you around a lot while you are attempting to either release it or add it to a bag or stringer.

Many big fish specialists carry the "lip gripper" tools to help subdue and control larger fish. Some of them have nasty spines and sharp gill covers that can slice and dice both you and your flimsy craft. The better you can immobilize the larger fish, the safer your final moments with themwill be.

I have heard tales of guys hooking up to large tuna and even striped marlin. But, I do not have reliable evidence that any real "big game" species...of any size...have been successfully landed from a tube or kickboat. Again, there have been quite a few documented successes on big game species from kayaks.

So, theoretically, there are no upper limits on the size of a fish that could be taken from a float tube. In reality, the chances of whipping a monster are slim...based upon the limitations of lift, mobility, speed, range, size of tackle that can be used, etc. Also, many big fish require assistance to be landed even from a boat. If you try to subdue a large fish by yourself, in a float tube, you need to be good...and lucky...and good and lucky.

When you get back from your ride in with the Coast Guard, let us know how you did with that biggun.
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[mykys]

[size 1]"I hope you did not post this from your laptop computer, while being towed out to sea by something huge...wondering whether or not to cut the line." I can only dream of being so stupid some day...most definently some day.[/size]

I have access to 4-5 lake trout waters. The catchs range from 8-20lbs on some waters while its 20-50lbs on others. I'm comfortable, practiced, inhesitant to kick a tiger muskie to shore, and looking for a bit of a tow. But I can't say being towed by a fish more than 100yrds sounds too apealing too late in the day.

I've been advised by a family member/seasoned fisherman/proud bft member not to go for maks on a tubes. But I can't do as he says until he catches one or starts answering loaded questions correctly. Bieng that a little breeze can really take you places, will I need a cell phone to call water patrol when a bigun hits? Or would this be an endevor best persued by boat?
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[road]

Hey Tube Tigers on a float now that is truly a pure fishermans dream! Not only can it be done but it can be done safely (wear that personal floatation device in case of accidents). The lip gripper is my next purchase as it will make landing those toothy fellas a dang site easier.
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[fishfather]

[size 2] I would never recommending catching anything that big on a float tube. All though people might be doing it I would not recommend it.[/size]

[size 2] I was reading up on the history of float tubes and several articles talk about the tubes being perfect for trout, bass, perch and other smaller species of fish and first being used by hunters to get into hard to reach spots for ducks,etc but It does not mention catching larger predator fish.[/size]

[size 2] My personal experience is I limit my hook size and bait size to maintain the catching of smaller species. They are easier to manage and there is less likely of a chance of you or you float tube being cut up.( Largest I ever caught on my tube was like 10-12lbs )[/size]

[size 2] Also watch weight limits on float tubes. I am a big guy. My float tube weight limit is 350lbs.[/size]

[size 2] The average weight I have seen on float tubes ranges between 250-300lbs. [/size]

[size 2] Angler+poles and other gear then add fish and whatever else we added on and you may be in danger of exceeding weight limit.[/size]

[size 2] Point I am trying to make is I am sure you could float to Catalina and back and maybe catch a Marlin but is it safe?[/size]

[size 2] Would you want to do it? Probably not. Be safe, use alot of common sense and do not get in over your head.[/size]

[size 2] I don't know about you all but I put alot of time and money into my equipment. I do not want to see it at the bottom of some lake, river or ocean bay.[/size]

[size 2] Just my input[][/size]
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[mykys]

I always have the line cutting option. But your right, evaluating risk is very important. I'll most likely just rent a small boat or buy a one man pontoon. Thanks for your opinion.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, Bro, I lived in Utah and fished those mack lakes in a float tube. Let's see, there's Bear Lake, The Gorge, and Fish Lake for decent macks...by US standards. All of them can be effectively fished from tubes. You can't troll with a downrigger, but you can darn sure put a hurtin' on them with vertical jigging techniques. And, you can land the biggest mack that grows in Utah from a tube. They have taken them up to 50 pounds in several of the waters in Canada and the Northwest Territories.

Of course, in Utah you may be fishing over 80 feet deep for macks, whereas in the frigid waters of the FAR NORTH, they can be taken in shallow water almost all year. Hooked straight down in deep water, you will have a slugfest on your hands with a big one. But, rather than taking off on long blistering runs, they tend to just keep the line over their shoulder and keep pulling back toward the bottom. The point is that with good rod, reel and line...and some stamina...you can stay in the game.

I have never hung any really big macks from a tube...but I usually prefer to fish for smaller and more active fish, on light to medium tackle. Just a personal preference. I have taken a few pups and a couple over 10, but again, you will not catch big fish on every trip. If you spent enough time on the right waters...fishing the right way...you would definitely score a biggun or two.

There was mention of weather. That is probably a bigger concern than being towed far offshore. Always pay attention to the weather whenever you go forth upon the waters. And, the bigger the lake, the more attention should be paid to the weather forecast. I have known guys that got blown clear across big lakes and had to hitch a ride back when the weather laid down. If you get wet and cold in the process, that could be life threatening as well as embarrassing.

But, if your goal is to do hand to fin combat with a big mack, go for it. Good places for tubin' are off Cisco Beach in Bear Lake, when the macks are close enough in. And, Antelope Flats area has been known to be kind to float tube mackers on the Gorge. In Fish Lake, first get some perch to decorate your hooks and then go out to where the macks and splake are, to vertical jig them.

That suggests a thought. Do you have sonar on your tube. If not, you will automatically limit yourself to the "chuck and chance it" category. That is not the way to score on those hard to find and finicky fish. You have to stay in high percentage water. They are hard enough to catch, but you can't catch them where they ain't.

Don't listen to the detractors. But do listen to your inner voice of common sense.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, Road, old buddy. I am well aware that the flotation flotilla up there has been mixing it up with the tigers of Pineview. I imagine that would be a blast. And, unless you had one leap into your lap, they can be quite safe to handle.

A big concern I would have for those pretty fish is getting too stressed by handling to successfully survive the encounter. In order to bring them close to a tube, you have to whip them to a standstill. Then, with the scooping, picture taking and body hugs I see so often in the pics, the poor fish has a lot of stress and physical damage to overcome. I am suprised that more of the don't turn belly up. Many of the boaters are harder on them then tubers.

How many have you hooked this year now? Still have that magic lure?

And, has FB2 hooked one yet?
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[JapanRon]

Hi there TubeDude,

Some of the monster halibut pics one can see via the bay boys tells you that really big, and exceptionally strong, bottom hugging fish who know how to turn their entire body to the current can be taken. Of course, that's a 40 minute to an hour fight. Best strategy on those is to literally stay near straight up from fishy and pray for deep water in my experience.

For other big species, your post has enspired me again. I just realized I don't have sturrips on my tube. If I had sturrips to slip my finned feet into (already got the design on that one as being open on one side) and a lanyard to hold on to with one hand I could raise up and lean way back toward the front of the tube, kinda like the way the guys lean on the opposite side of a sailboat when it's about ready to tip over when a really large, fast fish hits.

Let's see..... there's gotta be somethin' out in the garage as I don't think PVC will take care of this one.

JapanRon
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[aquaman]

i think its to big if you want to take it home and it pulls you the other way !!!LOL
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[mykys]

[size 1]Cisco Beach and Antelope Flats? I'll have to give it a try. Kinda wantted to get out on flaming gorge this fall. As far as sonar? I just measure the leanth of line one turn of the real brings in. Sure it doesn't show bottom structure, but I have to work with What I've got. Thanks for the locations.[/size]
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, JR, here ya go gettin' sports mixed up again. Handlin' big fish from the tube ain't like bull ridin'. You don't get style points, and there ain't no buzzer at the end of eight seconds.

On those halibut, I tried to include them in the list of large fish that can be successfully pursued by floatin' fools. They satisfy the basic requirements: 1. They can be taken in shallow water. 2. They usually do not dive into rocks 3. They can be taken on "normal" tackle.

As you pointed out, if you hook a large specimen, it is often just a matter of who gives out first...you are the fish. Their fight is more vertical than horizontal. They are not going to spool you like a big yellowtail.

One of the tactics I picked up a long time ago, that works well for any bottom hugging fish that you hook from your tube, is to AVOID fighting them straight up and down. Instead, if I have a "dogger" that just wants to maintain a close personal relationship with the bottom, I kick a few yards to one side and apply side pressure to keep the fish swimming laterally. This tires them out faster and allows you to use your fins for pull, rather than the limited lift you have trying to pull the fish back up vertically.

That is a technique I observed on a fishing show many years ago for big game guys on offshore boats. Whenever they hooked marlin, swordfish or tuna...all of which are known for diving and sulking...they used the boat to move out and put an angle on the line. It worked for them and I have used it on some big fish from my tube since. I have landed some big flathead catfish, on light line, that I could have never forced up from the bottom. But, by forcing them to swim, I gradually wore them out. In truth, I also wore myself out, with all the extra kicking, but I won the battle.

But...I do like your idea of PVC stirrups. Heck, I like the idea of anything that can be made with PVC. OOH-OOH-OOH.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, mykys, I fished "blind" from my tube for over thirty years. And, I caught a lotta fish too. But, I had to spend most of my prime fishing time prospecting and searching for fish, rather than working them over. Once I got underwater "eyes" my whole tubing persective changed.

Finding the bottom and being able to read the contours by bottom bouncing a jig or sinker is easy. If you snag up and break off...it ain't mud. And, if you get the feel for the sink rate of the jig or lure you are using, you can tell the relative differences in depth as you move in and out and over different channels, etc.

But, without sonar, you have no idea how many fish you are going over...if any. You just keep on keepin' on. With sonar, you can move quickly through the empty spots...to find better water. Or, when you find a few fish, you can position yourself over them and keep changing your lures and presentations until you find something they will vote for.

Once you learn an area, the need for sonar is reduced...but never eliminated. As water levels change...or temperatures, clarity, etc...the fish will move around. What was a great spot last week might be barren this week. That is especially true with macks. Although they tend to stay in certain areas of unique bottom conditions, they will move to follow food or temperatures to their liking.

If and when you start thinking seriously about adding electronics to your battle plans, we can help you choose something and get set up right. It is not expensive and surprisingly simple to install.

In the future, you can use the length of your arms to measure fish...not the length of line you are fishing.
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[road]

I have three for the season as of now. FB2 has zero, but then he has had to work when I am able to go. He is trying to get a Sat or Sun off then we will go and give um heck (we hope). The *lucky* lure has not been so lucky as of late. But as we both know what works today may not work tomorrow, and as the temps cool along with the water I see the lures changing as well. My goal next trip is to pick one up using a jig. I am still waiting on my molds to be delivered to make my own. But I have decided to decorate some plain janes I bought at Sportsmens. I mean you have to start some where and if they work I will have a new weapon for the hunt.

Now about wearing them out in a tube. I have purchased another spool for the reel and it is strung with 15 lb spyder wire. It seems a bit unfair to me taking away some of the battle, but it is MUCH easier of the fish. Once you get them close it has been my experence that they become docile when being handled. I have yet to lift one out of the water, if I do that I will probably be taking it home for a meal. I don't stick my hand in that toothy face either! I use a pr of bent needle nose pliers to remove the hook and hold them by the tail. This has worked well for me so far. I suspecct that one day I will get Mr. Ornery and that will be the end of that method. But until then I will continue to treat them as I would any catch and release fish, with the respect and the gentleness they deserve. I don't mind spending 20 minutes making sure they are well revived before releasing them back to the lake. Things are starting to slow at work so maybe I can take FB2 out of school one day and we can go Tiger hunting. He ruined his waders by not wearing boots while wading in the Provo, so I have given him a pr of mine. They're a little big, but now he will have some room for layering that he didn't have before. So maybe he wont freeze this winter. Me I replaced them with a pr from Cabelas that fit me ehhhh shall I sy more confortably. Us big boys need big waders and the stouts have made buying them much easier. So we are set for the fall/winter fishing. I am excitedly waiting for the cooler water at the Berry this year. It has been a slow season for me from the tube, but I plan on changing that shortly with the fall weather.
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