Posts: 156
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2008
Reputation:
0
I just recently got a 2006 Lund Classic Sport and I am going to be mounting downriggers on it. I havent decided on what kind for sure but leaning towards the cannon mag 10 or 5. How have you all mounted them?? I see that you can buy a attachment to hook into the rail on the side of my boat but is that sturdy enough for those big downriggers?? Or do I buy a 6" riser and put it at the back inside the boat?? If I do that do they just screw into the wood or do I have to figure out how to bolt them to the wood?? I would love to see any pictures you guys have of your mounting jobs and how they work or what you would do different. Thanks in advance for any tips or advice you can give me. Or if you know of a good place to take them thats fair priced so its done right I would take that advice too..
Thanks
[signature]
Posts: 1,299
Threads: 1
Joined: Jul 2008
Reputation:
0
I don't know the answer to most of your questions. I will comment on location, mine are in the very back, I am going to mount some electrics (whenever I find a deal on a couple) more forward on the boat so if the wind spins me it has no chance of getting in the motor. I will likely keep at least one off the back so I can use three riggers. I use a gimble mount on one in the back right now but it has broken the rod holder to bits. Not a good solution in my opinion.
[signature]
Posts: 14,596
Threads: 202
Joined: Jan 2011
Reputation:
15
I mounted my two manual riggers in the middle of the side walls (gunnels I think they are called). Great for fishing, but always in the way for everything else. Go electric on your riggers. If you're fishing deeper than 20' and the fishing is good at all the manuals will drive you nuts. Just a few observations I've made. I think a quick mount so I could easily move my riggers would be great, that way when we use the boat for skiing the riggers aren't in the road. I need one of those for the trolling motor too. Later J
[signature]
Posts: 87
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2011
Reputation:
0
I like the rear corners, not too far back. No screws, rather , nuts and washers. you need removable plates so your riggers slide off when not in use.
[signature]
Posts: 532
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2008
Reputation:
0
[#004080]I have two Cannon Mag 10s on my boat. The best advice I can give you is buy the swivel bases so you can swing them around as needed. You can always slide them off of the bases for safe keeping when not in use.[/#004080]
[#004080][/#004080]
[#004080]See pic attached.[/#004080]
[signature]
Posts: 905
Threads: 5
Joined: Apr 2003
Reputation:
0
I mounted mine using a product called the Vlock (see pic). I like it, because I can remove not only the downrigger, but also the bases, and I didn't have to alter my boat cover. Over time I've developed some play though (as the aluminum wears) but fortunately I've had zero problems so far, knock on wood.
I would look at mounting them on tracks so you can move them up and down the gunnels as needed, add rod holders, etc. I've talked to some guys that have taken this approach and they are really happy with the choice. I've also dealt with the guys at Berts and they are pretty knowledgeable and helpful with different applications. No matter what you use to mount them, make sure you add a good backing plate.
[url "http://berts-tackle.shptron.com/"]http://berts-tackle.shptron.com/[/url]
Good luck.
[signature]
Posts: 306
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2009
Reputation:
0
Here are some photos of mounts that I made myself. The angle iron fit perfect to the boat. Then I welded a piece of square tube on an angle to make it stick out past the side of the boat. Welded a plate to the top of that the size of the base and screwed it on to the plate. Then ran longer bolts all the way through the mount and the fiberglass of the boat. These are very sturdy and have never had a problem. The cost was free just a little labor on my part.
[signature]
Posts: 919
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2011
Reputation:
0
This is the custom down rigger mounts I had my father in law manufacture for my mag10's. The pockets are 4 pieces of aluminum welded together to make a box. The angle mounted to the down rigger is 1/4 thick titanium with a piece of Teflon bolted in the center to keep from rubbing the top rail. Simply drop the rigger in the pocket, screw in a single thumb screw and this thing is as solid as they come.
I went this route because I didn't want to have anything else on top of the rail that would interfere with my travel or weather cover.
[signature]
Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2012
Reputation:
0
I have a pair of Bert's swivel base with 4'' riser I will sell if you are interested ?
[signature]
Posts: 437
Threads: 3
Joined: Dec 2006
Reputation:
0
Its easier to double stack if they are in the back corners. Make them sturdy. You will get the ball hung up and have to deal with that eventually. The cannons will snap the swivel base lock pin if they get pulled hard enough. Be prepared to just cut the cable. Watch out for the booms too. If they get put under a load and cable snaps or swivel base pin breaks they will unload and hit you. Stick to the cannon cable as it is what the electric motor likes because it senses when the ball comes out of the water and shuts off automaticly. some thing that is real nice and works most of the time. Also braided line holds water and will freeze splitting the spool. Dont let a snag cause you to pull out all the cable as it will often break the spool when it reaches the end. Cable is way cheaper than the spool.
[signature]
Posts: 297
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2009
Reputation:
0
Those are some GREAT tips!!!
[signature]
..