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Snap Weights and Crank Baits
#1
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[font "Calibri"]Is anyone using Snap Weights or any other in-line weights to get Crank Baits down deeper? If so, do you have a method for calculating the approximate depth of the crank bait?[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]I printed out a copy of Off Shore Tackles “Pro Weight & Snap Weight Systems 50/50 Method” sheet. From what I have read it seems to be pretty reliable, but I assume it’s only to be used with non-diving lures. I will share the following information for those that are not familiar with this method. The test was conducted using 10 lb. test mono mainline, with 0.5, 0.75, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, and 3.0 ounce weights attached to the line, at speeds of 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 mph.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]This is how it works: Determine the desired target depth, and trolling speed. On the chart line up that depth and speed, choose the weight that best corresponds to that depth and speed. Let out 50 feet of line attach the weight to the line, and let out an additional 50 feet of line.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]I also read a method that says by placing a one ounce snap weight 20 feet in front of a crank bait will increase its diving depth by about 30%. So a crank bait that dives 9 feet will now dive approx. 12 feet.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Things to remember, speed, wind, currents, line type, line diameter, and the size weight selected will all come into play while trying to achieve a certain lure depth.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Do you have any thought, ideas, or suggestions on this topic? I know, get down riggers.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Just something to think about.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]See the attached dive chart.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Thanks, Brian[/font]
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#2
You also need to get the Precision Trolling Guide that lists the dive curves for all cranks. You can combine the snap weight info with the dive curve and get your bait where you want it. The trolling guide lists everything from original rapalas to Mann's deep 20 cranks. it is a must if you are trolling cranks for walleye, wipers, striper, trout, etc. The only thing I hate is that mine is 12 yrs old and they don't give you updates. I have also lost a couple of pages, so I have gaps. They cost about 30 bucks, but like I said, it is invaluable. I also use it with lead core, but like the snap weights best. There is also a Precision Casting Guide which shows the dive curves for casting and retrieving cranks.
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#3
Mike4Cobra showed it to me several years ago and I have used a modified version ever since. I found that chart is a good starting point but because of the factors you mentioned, that the chart does not cover, it is best to experiment until you find a combo that works best for your situation. Much better than down riggers in shallow water and if you use bigger weights, like 6 to 8 oz they can also work well as a poor mans downrigger in deeper water for trout and kokanee. One other thing that is worth mentioning, you don't need to use the 50/50 method to have success with snap weights. Many times, I'll let out more or less line than the 50/50 method call for and have better success.
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#4
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[font "Calibri"]Thanks guy,[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]I have a 7th edition copy of Precision Troll and it doesn’t have some of the Rapala cranks that I use in it. They no longer print the guide, but there is now an APP available. If you purchase only the dive information from the app for the lures you are interested in, the cost is $1.99 each. You can also purchase the Lifetime Package for $109.99.[/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Brian[/font]
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#5
I have used home-made snap-on weights for 20+ years and can say you can get a much better idea of how deep your lure is running by checking to see if you're tapping the bottom or not - I use 2 & 3 oz weights and can effectively fish up to 35' FOW.

You have to remember that the book doesn't account for 'S' turns, slow turns, and fishing deeper to shallower trolling directions. For example at Deer Creek I often go from the 20' to 10' and then circle back out - I use the 60' then twice to the bottom' method -- 60' out then snap-on weight then free spool to the bottom - then let the line straighten then send it to the bottom one more time. This will put you in the zone. Also my main line is at least 17 lb test mono and leader usually 10 lb test.


Luke let the FORCE do the work - don't reply on the book too often use your instincts!
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