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winterizing
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10-21-2004, 05:32 PM
I just purchesed my first boat ever it is a 1985 invader outboard 18' open bow with a 170hp outboard motor. I want to get my boat out atleast once before it is to late. What do I need to do to winterize this boat?
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10-21-2004, 09:06 PM
[
 ]I too bought my frist boat about two months ago and had the same questions and what i'm told is that you need to make sure that the gear lube is good and the wheels on the trailer are greased. You did'nt say if it is a two stroke or four stroke motor. Four stroke you should change the oil, of course the two stroke only has the gear lube to wory about. Scottieb [signature]
10-21-2004, 09:27 PM
Just a few things:
1) Gas stabilizer 2) Fog the carb. 3) Kick the motor over to get any H20 from the lower unit. 4) If storing outside - Remove the prop - it might get stolen 5) Fill your tank(s) with gas. 6) Disconnect and remove battery. I know there are a few more items but you still have 2 months of fishing before hard water - now is the time for going after the big fish before the hard water comes - they put on the feeding bag... [signature]
10-21-2004, 09:27 PM
Tynyum
I don't know about four stroke engines, but as for two stroke, you need to change the lower gear oil, and check to see if its milky or clear. (Milky indicates water in the engine which is not good! If it's clear, you're good to go by replacing the gear lube. While clear, and you see some tiny metal shavings, that's quite normal) Then put in sea foam which is a gas stabilizer. Make sure you fill up the gas tank and then you put that sea foam in the tank. The reason for filling the tank is to keep the tank from condesation. You don't need that dew-water in there. Next thing before you start the motor, have the flush and turn on the hose water, then you start the motor... Then you run the old gas out of the motor by spraying (can't remember name)into the carb and then pull the gas line out of the motor and let it run out of gas, and then put the gas line back in. You are good to go. Also tilt your motor all the way down to keep the rain/snow water from freezing inside the lower gear area. (If allowed to freeze, it can crack, and expand.) Hope this helps. If I forgot anything else, the BFT folks can help out with the rest. [signature]
10-22-2004, 01:33 AM
got to the wyoming board,i habe a post called (hope this helps) it all about winterzing your boat and motor
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10-22-2004, 04:14 PM
One of my boats has a 35hp 2 stroke mercury and I was wondering how I would go about changing the low gear oil?
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10-22-2004, 04:42 PM
Oats,
If it's a mercury, then look at the lower right side of the prop area, you should see two flathead screws, one on the bottom, and one about a foot above it, take the upper screw off first, and then get a bucket under the engine on the floor, and then open the lower screw, and let it all out... You need to buy the mercery gear lube with a pump, and then put the tube on the lower end, and pump away until you see the fluid come out of the upper hole, once filled, use your thumb and quickly screw the lower screw in, and then screw in the upper one, and that's it. Do not throw the pump away, it's reusable! Hope this helps. [signature]
10-22-2004, 07:26 PM
It actually works much better to drain it by taking the lower screw out first. Not much lube will come out as long as the upper screw is still in place, and you don't get so messy. Then you can go ahead and take the upper screw out and let 'er fly. When it's all drained out, refill it from the bottom hole until it starts coming out the top hole, then replace the top screw first. Again, not much will come out the bottom hole with the top hole plugged, and you can quickly take the pump off the bottom and replace the screw. Make sure there's a gasket on the screw or plug.
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10-22-2004, 10:20 PM
There is a bunch of different opinions when it comes to winterization of your boat.
Heres what I do. First, set yourself up with a fuel filter/ water seperator. Your engine already has a fuel filter on it, but the canister style filters with water seperators are the way to go. That way you dont have to worry about condensation in your tank. You wont have to fill up with gas and run old gas in the spring. Definitley run fuel stabilizer through your last tank of gas. Just in case any small ammounts of gas are left in lines, or carbs, or anywhere else. I pump all the gas out of the tanks, drain the filters, and replace the canister filter, and the small mesh filter. You will definitley want to drain the gasoline out of your carbs. Theres a reason they make drain screws on them, and if you talk to any boat repair guy, they will tell you they do a ton of replacements, and rebuilds on carbs. Its simple, just unscrew them, and let the fuel drain. You will want to fog the cylendars of your engine. This is a rust preventitive. You want to make sure your cylendar walls do not get rust on them as they sit. the rust will flake off inside there, and scratch up your walls. Take the spark plugs out, and put a very light ammount of grease on the threads. This seals the cylendars off from moisture. Then screw them back in. Flush the engine water colling system by running fresh clean water through the system. This will hopefully clear any gunk or lake debris that may get hard, and crusty in there and eventually clog the system. Change the lower unit oil and clear any metal filings off the magnetic drain plug. Grease your prop shaft if you are going to leave the prop on, if not, grease it next spring before you put the prop back on. Grease all your grease points. The shaft that your motor turns on will get water in it. You need to fill it with grease to expell any water that is in there so it doesnt freeze and split your shaft. same is true for all grease points, and any places that water gets into. Theres quite a few of them. Take care of the trailer axles, and brake system if it has one. As far as your enigine goes, I may have forgot a couple things, but thats as much as I could think of at this time. Be aware that not all engines are alike. I based my info on the year of your engine. I am guessing it is carburated rather than injected. Be aware that yamahas, and mercury engines are not the same, Some engines out there are vapor sealed, and the various injection systems require differing methods of maintenance. You can do as little or as much maintenance as you like, you can cut corners, and make exceptions, but the more time you invest in finding out how to care for your engine, the longer it will perform for you. Everything I posted here is out of a yamaha carburated motor owners manual. My carburatted V6 mercury is different a bit, and my injected V6 yamaha is different again. Keep in mind that is just engines stuff as well. To care for batteries, and hoses and trailers, and livewells, bilge pumps, elecrical systems, ect is all an important part of boat maintanance. [signature]
10-22-2004, 10:51 PM
Thanks, thats all very informative! I have another question for some of you engine experts. My 35 mercury has a tendency about every 10 trips out to bog down. I'll start it up put it in gear and at full throtle it runs at about 1/4 power, then I'll try to rev it up and sometimes it will pop out of being stuck in a lower gear and other times I have to troll around for 20 minutes before it pops out of the lower gear. Just wondering if there is a simple salution to this or if its something a bit more complicated?
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10-23-2004, 12:51 AM
outboards only have one forward and one reverse gear. its all in your carberation, it sounds like you may just be running rich enough to gum things up every once in a while.
thats NOT a bad thing the more oil that motor will take the better, as long as you arent fouling plugs. DZ [signature]
10-23-2004, 01:11 AM
I wouldnt dare try to diagnose your engine online. I am no engine expert.
But I do know a guy who is. Ever meet a guy who loves what he does, and knows it in and out? Lee at lees marine is one of those guys with mercury engines. The man has skills and unlike lots of other places, his priority is your engine, not his pocket book. I would tend to agree with danzilla in concept, but theres so much going into these engines these days like the 2+2 system on the 4 cyl mercs, ect. You may find a simple solution, and you may find something big that needs to be repaired before major damage is done. Lees marine. 435-245-7727 talk to lee. While you have him on the phone, you may want to talk to him about winterizing your specific engine. [signature] |
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