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[cool][#0000ff]I use a lot of spinners. I make most of my own stuff. Like most spinner makers, I use mainly either chrome or brass blades. But, I have found that it is easy to paint the plain blades and that some colored blades can really be productive on some occasions.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I use about three kinds of blades for most of my spinners...Colorado, Indiana and "inline" blades. The first two require a "clevice" to attach the blade to the wire, so that it can spin freely. The "inlind" blades, like those used on Panther Martin spinners, goes directly on the wire and needs no clevice.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]For any painted blade will be white or a hot color (pink, chartreuse, orange, red, etc.) I start by painting with two thin coats of white vinyl jig paint. If the paint is properly thinned, it will level nicely, without streaks or lumps. I lay the blades flat on a paper towel to dry between coats.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]For my plain white blades, I may use some silver glitter before adding red spots. On some, I combine white glitter with "diamond dust" glitter to give a sparkly pearl finish. After the glitter is dried I add the spots. On a white blade, you can use hot red, hot pink or even black spots. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If I am doing a chartreuse blade, the chartreuse jig enamel goes on over the white, before any glitter. To get a great glitter coat, I add some neon yellow candle glitter over the chartreuse paint, by mixing it into clear vinyl jig paint. I may add the glitter after applying spots...either hot red or black. Both work well with chartreuse blades.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You can also end up with some great trout catching spinners by putting hot red or hot pink spots on either chrome or brass blades. You need to make the spots first with dots of white paint, and then add the dots of hot colors over the white. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When all the coats of paint and glitter have dried well, finish the job with a coat of clear jig epoxy. This will add to the durability of the paint, protect it against teeth and keep the paint from reacting if the spinners come in contact with soft plastic lures.[/#0000ff]
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thanks...I think you may have just thrown me into a Winter pastime...between this one and the in-line french spinners I could be really busy this Winter.
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[cool][#0000ff]Have fun...but don't hurt yourself.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Some of my latest creations are putting pearl and diamond dust glitter over white blades...shad imitation. The wipers like them.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Also doing more with glittering plain brass or silver blades...with gold or silver glitter, respectively.[/#0000ff]
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[size 3][black]Here is the model I am making this year for our football pool, Soft plastics provided by Maniac lures.[/black][/size]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size]
[size 3][black]The colorado type blades I am getting are 5 for a dollar at the local market, I end up with solid colors, anything else cost a couple bucks for three. I wouldnt mind haveing a little more detailed blades.[/black][/size]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size] [left][black][size 3]I may seriously think about critiquing blades this winter as well, I didn’t get any ice last year to speak of, If we get the same weather as last year, I will be on the same thin ice as Mark[/size][/black] [/left] [left] [/left] [center] [/center] [center] ![[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=19214;]](http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=19214;) [/center] [center] [/center] [left]these here already take me 15-20 minutes apeice to make, .015 diamiter coated braided Stainless steel Leads. Owner cutting point Bait keeper hooks with black chrome finish. [/left] [left] [/left] [left]I am giving one away every week on the football pool. You guys should get in on the action, even I tied this week for the number of teams to win, and I dont know any thing about foot ball other than there is more than 9 yards to a first down.[/left] [left] [/left] [left]they cost a little over a dollar each to make, not counting the soft plastics. the hook, spinner and clevis puts it over a buck.[/left] [left] [/left] [left]I looked at your craftsmanship, and I like what I see, It makes me wonder what the added cost per component and time involved is?[/left]
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TD,
How many coats of clear do you apply:
1) if you are simply coating the paint with clear before epoxy
2) if you are using the clear vinyl coat to clear and add glitter
3) you are using the clear vinyl coat to apply clear and add glitter to a plain spoon, e.g. a hammered brass spoon that you just add dots to or plain spoon that you are just coating with glitter
I'm assuming one or two coats, but not sure if the clear contains glitter. Does applying 2, 3, or 4 coats with glitter add even more depth, or is that overkill?
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[cool][#0000ff]For jig heads [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. apply paint, [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. 1 or 2 coats of glitter (mixed with clear vinyl)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. Add eyes (paint or stick on)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. Clear vinyl coat (protects eyes and levels surface of glitter)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Clear epoxy coat.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]For spinners and spoons:[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. Glitter coat and then dots. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. Or...paint and then glitter[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. Eyes[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. Clear coat[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Epoxy[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The use of the clear vinyl adds strength to the paint and a layer of protection for dots and eyes. As you have observed, it also fills in rough areas on the glittered surfaces and makes for more depth and light reflection. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]On some jigs or blades, one thin coat of glitter is enough for effect. If you want to make a complete glittered surface, two lighter coats of glitter work better than one heavy one.[/#0000ff]
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Okay, so always an additional coat of clear over the glitter coat(s). I did see some blades you did where you glittered over the dots, which I kind of liked. Painting today...should have a veritable mess by late this evening [  ]
After scotch briting my fingertips to the nubbins, I can see that making lures larger than ultra light might be a bit more fun [pirate]
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[cool][#0000ff]You are right. I have a lot of different designs and some of them have some of that fine chartreuse glitter over black or orange dots. It gives them a unique appearance.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By this time next year you will be a pro. You will wonder "Was I ever really that (dumb/inexperienced/overenthusiastic/etc.)[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]No sweat. We all start somewhere and it is usually from ground zero. Nobody was ever BORN knowing this stuff. I just wish I had more access to this kind of info over the years. Sure would have made my life easier...and less expensive.[/#0000ff]
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Well, your vast knowledge is certainly appreciated. I don't know, with my limited time, if I would have the intestinal fortitude to stay with it if I had to learn everything by trial and error, as you did. So a big thinks for all of the help. Of course, with my painting skills and color coordination, it may still be a lost cause...we'll see. [ ]
One other question--can you successfully paint over powder paint once it's cured, with vinyl jig paint? I might want to save some time by doing some spoons solid in powder paint, then adding a glitter coat and spots, then epoxy.
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[cool][#0000ff]Putting a base of white powder paint on first is a good move. Quite a few guys do that. Adds to the chip resistance of the final produce...whatever that turns out to be. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Vinyl paints are compatible with powder coatings so you can just go head on 'til your head hurts.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]"Vast" knowledge? Sometimes more like half-vast.[/#0000ff]
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Thx for the info. on the powder paint.
And what a humble guy! We'll have to give a pin that states "Most Humility" (of course, as soon as you wear it we'll have to take it away)
[ ]
But seriously, if I can accumulate just a fraction of what you know, I'll consider myself adequate.
I noticed you don't have much in the way of green (dark green) or froggy pattern stuff--do you find it doesn't work, or the other stuff works fine without it? I was thinking of painting a few spoons with a frog pattern similar to the luhr jensen kroc pattern.
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[cool][#0000ff]The frog pattern/colors are favorites among a lot of anglers, for several species. I make and use them, but not as much as others. No good reason. Just habits. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]In the attached pic of spoon colors, there are a couple of "frog" patterns in the upper right corner.[/#0000ff]
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TD,
I completely overlooked those patterns when I saw that pic before. Thanks for the reminder. Very nice patterns in that pic.
I'm putting down some patterns today. Spent some time last night putting on the white primer coats. I can see it will take just a bit of getting used to with determining the correct thinning of the paint, etc. It was kind of difficult painting the ultra light stuff--I was painting 00 and 0 size blades (a coupld of size 1) and the small spoons. Seems the smaller lures make the bigger mess [crazy].
And getting ready to put down the patterns today, I can defiintely see the advantage in mass production. I will have a bit of clean up to do changing colors between every couple of spoons/blades. I'll send you a snapshot or two later, if wifey will allow me enough time to get some of this most important work done.
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[cool][#0000ff]Proper thinning is a big factor in getting nice paint jobs. I always keep the thinner and an eye dropper handy to fine tune the thickness of the paint or glitter mix while I am working with it. It takes time to learn the right consistencies for different applications.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One suggestion on painting the small blades: Hold them with a pair of small needle nose pliers, right at the opening in the blade. That makes for a firm hold and less paint on your fingers.[/#0000ff]
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Wish I would have thought of that last night--after painting the white primer coats, my hands looked like I was turning into the Pilsbury dough boy.
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[cool][#0000ff]Been there, done that. My wife and I had a good laugh the last time I was putting glow paint on some lures. I did a batch late in the evening. I thought I had gotten all the residue off my hands, but there were a few specks of the glow paint mix left on a couple of my fingernails.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You guessed it. After lights out there were some bright green specks of light before my eyes. That glow powder is powerful stuff and I had "fingernail fireflies". They were still glowing when I woke up in the middle of the night.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]All of that comes under the heading "Lessons Learned".[/#0000ff]
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THAT'S funny!
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[cool][#0000ff]Not nearly as funny as trying to explain why a big ol guy like me goes around wearing glitter...after a glitter painting session. That stuff flies all over the place and sticks like you can't believe.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When folks ask me about it I just tell them I have been playing with Trixie and Bubbles down at the Pink Pussycat topless bar.[/#0000ff]
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TD,
Can I clean up the two part epoxy with the vinyl paint thinner, or should I plan on using disposable brushes? I can't dip the lure, because most are only painted on one side.
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[cool][#0000ff]Yes, you can use the vinyl jig finish thinner to clean brushes that you used for the epoxy. You can also use it on a cotton swab to clean excess epoxy from around freshly epoxied surfaces. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When cleaning epoxy brushes, I do several dip and clean trips and then let the cleaned brush sit in the vinyl thinner for awhile to finish loosening any remaining epoxy. That seems to work pretty well.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]A more "aggressive" epoxy thinner is acetone. Like all thinners and solvents, it is potentially hazardous...as you well know. Work in a ventilated area and don't be around it too long at any one session. Also, try to avoid direct skin contact since that stuff is easily absorbed through the skin.[/#0000ff]
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