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Small spoons
#1
I got some samples of some very small brass spoon blades. They are lighter gauge brass, and only 7/8" long. They are really light, and probably too light even for an ultra light spoon with just paint and a hook.

I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas of anything additional I can add either above or below the spoon to add a bit of weight, yet still utilize the action of a spoon. Was thinking of maybe some small, soft plastic trailing the spoon? Ideas very welcome...
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#2
[cool][#0000ff]Those small, really light spoons will be great for delicate presentations on small creeks...or even on some larger waters. A lot of trollers like them to drag on leadcore line or behind some other kind of weight. You can even simply crimp on a split shot a foot or two above the spoon for casting or sinking weight.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Don't try adding lead to the spoon. That will kill the action and ruin the whole purpose.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Kinda like the guy on the liquid diet plan. He claimed that if you mixed in a couple of scoops of Haagen Daz along with the diet powder you had a really good drink.[/#0000ff]
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#3
Um, I think I was the guy on the diet plan.
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#4
I was wondering when I looked at this if you ment 7/8 of an inch or you ment something smaller like 1/4-3/8 of an inch.

7/8's I think are size number #3.

I use number #3's for trolling and casting. I pull in Bass, Bluegill, Perch, Pike, cisco, trout, walleye, and salmon.

here is one of my riggings. [center][Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=19214;][/center] [center][/center] [left]the soft plastics are from maniac lures. and Black magic cruly tail.[/left] [left] [/left] [left][/left] [left]I have been giving away one of these rigs every week on the not nessisarily board.[/left] [left] [/left] [left][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=294849;#294849"]http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=294849;#294849[/url][/left] [left] [/left] [left][/left] [left]all any one need do is guess the most right picks for the weekly foot ball games. the teams are provided, and each team if you are guessing is a 50/50 chance of being right.[/left] [left] [/left] [left][/left] [left]I tip off these rigs with soft plastics, spawn bags, live bait, I even tie them in to large streamer flys.[/left]
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#5
Dave
I was actually referring to casting spoon blanks--7/8" long, and pretty light gauge brass. I got some samples from Worth Co, in Wisconsin. Also got samples of 1 3/16" casting spoon blanks, one from light, the other a heavier gauge brass. I was wondering what to do with the smallest casting spoon to dress it up, and put some weight to the rig.
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#6
I thought that was what you wanted the paints for?

I made a typo above, 3/4" is a number #3 7/8" is a number #4.

the one in the photo above is a brass hammered number #4 Colorado Style Blade.

you have heard all the talk about magic powders, vinal, air brushes.

you can go lo-tec, go down to a womans department and pick out your favorite fingernail polishes in your color. this time of year the ladies will think you are christmas shopping.

you can go to a gag shop and picked up glow in the dark fingernail polish.

some of the beads I use are glow in the dark.

you can do the same thing with your wire ties.
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#7
Well, I can paint them, but I was wondering, in the original post, if there was something that could be done with a casting spoon (a very, very small, light one), that would add some weight to the rig. Contemplating using a piece of wire at the top end with a spinner on the wire, then a split ring and swivel attached to the spoon.

TubeDude had the good idea of putting a small colorado blade on the bottom split ring with the treble hook, to add a bit of flash to the rig. I think I will try this, along with a piece of hook tubing.
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#8
those little 1/4-3/8's spoons in my area we use for jigging mounted the way Tubedude mentioned,

put them directly on the loop of of your jig heads, above the hook and a couple beeds over a regular hook on your mono, directly to the loop of your tear drop jigs and swedish pimples. place them on larger spoons so that it rattles against the main spoon.

some our teardrops we put two small blades on them one on each side of the loop that resemble angle wings.

we make tear drop jigs out of the small blades.

If I have a rig that hasnt got the weight I want I add a split shot a foot above the rig on the main line.

we dont use them to increase the weight, we use them to increase the flash/visibility or make sound.
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#9
here is something you can do with casting blades.

they are filled then painted.

[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=20179;]

the bowl side is filled then painted.

the one on the right the hook is set in to the fill
[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=20178;]


this one is three spoons, one filled and hook incerted and two 3/16 spoons set in to the loop of the wire hook.
[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=20177;]

the eyes are just stickers, you can get them at Michells crafts.
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#10
VERY nice looking lures. What are they filled with?

Do you epoxy over the eyes to keep them from coming off?
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#11
Dave,
Care to share how you painted those lures--paint, brush/airbrush, colors, finish, etc.? Very unique--would like to try some miniatures of them.
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#12
the eyes are peal and stick reflective stickers. yes they do get soggy if you use them for more than a couple hours like I do. I carry a couple extras if the fish move them off or I nock the off.

it you want to perminantly mount them. use clear enamal fingernail pollish over top the entire finish. If your woried about the quality of the reflectiveness then just enamal over the edge of the sticker. Personaly I dont think you need it. I have been useing them for years. the eyes are cheep enough and I seldom keep a lure after it rusts.

use an ebrasive cloth to clean the inside of the spoon, use plumers flux and plumbers silver soder.

use a cast Iron skillet that you never plan on using for food ever again. solder and lead releases toxic fumes that will re-release while cooking, cleaning will not remove toxic waist.

you can pick up a cheep pancake skillet at your nerrest wally mart for about ten bucks. as Tubedude has suggested.

I make only one at a time. I use a vice and a hand torch. clean flux the iside of the perchesed hammered spoon. bend clean and flux the hook before starting.

wear goggles

heat the bottom of the spoon using the silver solder spool wire about a foot out from the heat, you dont want to splatter you hand.

fill spoon, careful not to over fill. use neadle nose pliers to set the hook in to the melt. you need to hold it there till one the hook is heated, (only a couple seconds) then till the fill cools enough to hold the hook by its self.

to paint.

you pick your base color.

the one above is yellow powder. thin applyed your best method. then use a soft makeup brush to apply the top with black and the bottom with red.

note the uneveness because of the splatter. this is where the craafters heat blower comes in handy. It evens out the flow of the powder paints.

this is why I said once you have mastered the powders you will be able to do some amazing things with it. In comparison to some of the stuff I have seen, I am a slouch.... I do well enough for myself.
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#13
Thanks--very interesting--does the silver solder affect the lure action much, or are you using those for vertical jigging?
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#14
the flash from the camera has distorted the colors so you are not looking at true color.

the biggest one is 7/8 inch colorado spoon (trebbles give me problelms remembering sizes
I think it is a number 5 dont hold me to it. the barb is quarter inc from barb to shank)

the middle size is one color glow in the dark powder half inch spoon number six long shank arberdean hook, spoon size I beleive to be a number one, 7/16 inch.

the small one is a indiana blade number one or 3/8 inch. number #8 arberdeen hook. color yellow bowder wings size number #03 or 3/16. Red dot for eye. two pairs of plyers to open and close eye just enough to slip in wing tips.
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#15
you pretty much end up with a lead sinker that will rock on its way down. good for high long drob jiging action
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