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Dumb question
#1
When I make live bait rigs for trolling, I always add a "stinger" to the end on, I don't know, about 4 to 6 inches of leader. I mostly use like a 90 lb 7 strand leader that attaches with small crimps. I find this type of line to be more efficient because I can catch more than a single fish on it and it allows the bait to swim more naturally than on single strand wire.

I was thinking of attaching some sort of spinner or something to the stinger hook to make it more appealing for fish that tend to short strike. It'll give them something else to snap at when they do infact come "up short" on thier initial target.

I'm not sure what would be best to do, and there is no problem making the stinger part of the rig longer if need be. Since I make them, I control thier fate. [cool]

I've yet to look at anything yet, so treat me like a 2 year old when you explain this to me. I can make tournament grade rigs with the best of them, but i've never messed with add-on components. I'm just trying this out, what do you guys and gals suggest.

This will be used in saltwater for med to large toothy species that love flash and color.
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#2
[cool][#0000ff]Not a dumb question. The only "dumb" question is one you don't ask...and it costs you fish or time wasted.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have messed with spinner blades on a wide variety of lures and bait rigs over the years. I firmly believe that adding some flash and vibration can often be that "something extra" that gets bites when "plain vanilla" doesn't get the job done.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You will find lots of pics and references on this board to my roadrunner (pony head) jigs, with the little spinner blades. I don't leave home without them. Once I started using the cheap little crane swivels, split rings and small blades for the roadrunners I started incorportating them into other lures as well. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One of the things I do is add "jingle" to jigging spoons by attaching a small blade to the split ring that holds the hook, at the bottom of the spoon. I got the idea from the Swedish Pimple line of spoons. They use colored plastic pieces, but a little silver Colorado, Indiana or willowleaf blade works too.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have been making "spinner-butt" flies and lures for quite a few years. Basically, I just tie in a short length of wire when making a dressed jig or fly and then loop on a crane swivel, add a split ring and then a blade. (see pics). When these things are trolled or retrieved, they track in a straight line, but the tail spinner adds a lot of flash and action. Strikes from stripers and other predators are often savage.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You can do the same thing on a stinger hook by just running the hook through the top ring of the crane swivel and then finishing it off with the split ring and blade. You keep the spinner addition from slipping off the hook by using the old basser's trick of slipping a tiny piece of rubber over the hook point after the crane swivel. This lets you add or remove the spinner as you wish...or change colors and/or sizes of blades.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Unless you have a long wire on your stinger hook, there should be no problem with the total length being too long. Depending upon the species and their mode, they often whack the lures in the middle or from the head anyway.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Just in case you have never bought or used the flimsy (cheap) crane swivels, here is the page from Barlows in Texas. You can get a hundred of the size 10 or 12 for about $4. Then, get the cheapest light wire split rings you can find. Size 0 or 1 are about right for most blades. You don't have to hold heavy fish on them...just the spinner.[/#0000ff]
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[Image: 301101.jpg]
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#3
I'm am so frustrated. LOL, I couldn't find a darn picture of a live bait trolling rig anywhere online. I'm at work so I can't take a picture of one of mine.

I can't use a rear mount spinner with these rigs, it has to be a foward mount. the bulk of these fish strike short, so if the spinner were to the rear of the hook, the hook up rate would go way down. I'd be better not to put anything on the stinger if I had to mount it to the rear.

Is there another way?
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#4
[cool][#0000ff]Another fairly simple solution. Rig the spinner blade ahead of your lure/bait setup with beads, a clevice and a blade...just like walleye guys fish crawlers.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]It is easy to put some beads and a spinner on your line before tieing the knot to the lure/hook/stinger setup. I know guys that carry both regular and propeller blades for rigging ahead of crawlers, minnows, leaches or strip baits.[/#0000ff]
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#5
Mmmmm, that might work. What I could do is rig the entire rig with my 7 strand, all except the stinger. I can use solid strand wire for that. The spinner would rotate alot better on single strand. I could put how many ever beads on there to pull the spinner off the hook. When I get a hit, all i'll have to do is replace the stinger leader, which would take like 2 seconds.

Can you send me a picture of a blade spinner that might work good for this application? Maybe even a link to where I could purchase one.

Thanks Alot Pat!
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#6
[cool][#0000ff]Chances are you can find small quantities of blades, clevices and beads at a storefront operation near you. If not, then try Cabelas, Janns, Barlows or Stamina.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][url "http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0001710&type=pod&cmCat=cat20200_feat"]CABELAS BLADES[/url][/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][url "http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/horizontal-pod.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/pod-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat20200-cat190001_TGP&rid=&indexId=cat190001&navAction=push&masterpathid=&navCount=2&parentType=index&parentId=cat190001&id=0004267"]CABELAS CLEVICES[/url][/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][url "http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod-wrapped.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/pod-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat20200-cat190005_TGP&rid=&indexId=cat190005&navAction=push&masterpathid=&navCount=8&parentType=index&parentId=cat190005&id=0011106"]CABELAS BEADS[/url][/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Plain old cheap Colorado and Indiana blades will work, but you may want to get fancy. Fancy costs more.[/#0000ff]
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#7
a simple way to attach a stinger is to mount a short leader to the hook of your current leader.

use a twenty pound test line or larger if you hook allows,
[ul] [li]tie a snell knot to your stinger hook, [/li] [li]tie a trilean knot to the main hook of you lead.[/li][/ul]
If you want to use the steel line for the stinger that is doable as well

You can buy lenths of stingers already tied.

I make live "still leads" and "trolling leads" out of the material I sent you. Both with stingers attached.

I've been making them for 20 years now, I can make 4 an hour on a good day [laugh][unsure] so the pay aint all that good...LOL If I make a dollar apeice of one then I make 4 bucks an hour... It is a good time killer...[Tongue]
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#8
I think I know what you are trying to do so here is my awful drawing of what I think:

[Image: DSC00920.jpg]

Other option is to add 4 beads and a spinner on the main section of wire so the spinner is in front of the nose of the bait.
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#9
[center]My drawings are kind of lame too so here is a couple quick slop together rigs[/center] [center] [/center] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/6415/cat/574"][Image: DSCN0308.JPG][/url][/center]

in the photo above are three rigs, top two with stingers

the bottom rig is a standard lead with a trebble for the last hook.

all are stainless steel leads 15lb.

the rig in the center is a 6 inch lead on a trailer rig with a stinger tied directly to the hook using a trilean knot. I used 30lb braded line to show the knot and location of attachment.

the stinger on the second rig can slide back and forth on the rig depending how you want to hook up. the stinger will not come off the hook, the line will have to break before the stinger comes loose.

the same stinger as in the second rig can be used on each hook of the third rig. making an octopuss rig were the stingers rap around oposet sides to the under side of your live trolling bait.

the first lead is used for still fishing of that the first hook goes to the head and the second treble slides back to hook in to the tail.

on the first rig I did not use any beeds or blades, it is a bare rig I use for pike...
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