11-05-2003, 06:42 AM
[font "Arial"][size 2]A popular refrain among boat owners is that a boat is nothing more than a hole in the water in which to throw money. That 
-in-cheek adage is meant to refer to the constant maintenance, fuel and accessories that can drain cash in a hurry.
But the adage can be especially prophetic after the boating season ends for all but the most ardent anglers and outdoors enthusiasts. Woe be to the boat owner who fails to winterize his boat.
Winterizing is important because the average person doesn't fish 12 months a year, And if you own a stern drive or ski boat, it's absolutely the thing do.
The biggest reason to winterize is to protect the engine from freezing to prevent cracked blocks and manifolds.
Having an outboard winterized at a dealer will cost from $60 to $100, inboard or stern-drive engines will cost more depending upon the number of cylinders, but $130 to $175 is a good ballpark figure. Inboard and stern-drive engines are much like automobile engines.
It's more critical for four-stroke inboards and stern drives than two-stroke engines, Most of your four-strokes contain water for cooling. Water expands when frozen, hence the danger of cracked engine blocks and other systems in the motor.
Do it yourself
Outboard owners handy with a wrench can winterize at home by adding fuel conditioner or stabilizer to gas, changing gearcase oil, lubricating cables and propeller shaft, draining engine and lower unit, and inducing "fogging oil" to the cylinders to prevent rust. The basics are the same for outboards from one to eight cylinders.
If you don't add fuel conditioner and run it for 15 to 20 minutes, you'll end up with a $300 carburetor rebuild. I have seen boats that gummed up after 90 days, and boats that didn't after two years [without fuel conditioner].
Fuel stabilizer prevents fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Fogging oil can be administered while the engine is running by spraying it into the air intakes of the carburetor(s) or the electronic fuel injection system. Removing the sparkplugs and spraying a quick blast of fogging oil into the cylinders while turning over the engine by hand is a good idea.
Changing the oil and gear lube while winterizing has several benefits.
If you wait to change either of them until the spring of the year, all of the crud will have settled into the bottom of the gear case or the oil pan,
If you find that winterizing a motor is more than you want to handle, take your boat to a dealer.
We have a saying around here, when a man brings in a $5,000 motor that froze up,Well, he saved himself $100.
One big thing is that a lot of people don't believe they need to winterize if the boat is kept in a garage. I have seen a lot of garage-kept boats with cracked blocks.
Motors are not the only part of the boat package that can benefit from winterizing. Batteries need TLC as well.
The ideal situation is to remove the battery and store it between 35 and 75 degrees, It's not necessary to store batteries on wood slats. Modern batteries won't discharge through concrete like old batteries used to.
I advise boaters to trim the outdrive all the way down before removing the battery because there is no power to trim the motor after the battery is removed. Label all battery wires and cables to make reconnection easier when re-installing.
Make sure to lubricate the steering linkage on outboard motors, as it will be exposed to the elements in the winter.
Don't forget the hull
Hulls can benefit from winterizing as well. The No. 1 thing to do is to remove any drain plugs for storage.
I have seen boats and the tires on the trailer were almost flat because water collected in the hull,. A big boat can hold hundreds of gallons of water in the hull.
If the boat has been moored in a slip all season, some marine growth may have grown on the hull. It's much easier to remove growth while it is wet than after it has dried.
Waxing the hull on fiberglass boats protects the gel coat from ultraviolet rays and prevents the "chalky" look that's expensive to fix, I also advised removing any seat cushions and storing them inside, and leaving storage compartments such as rod lockers open or cracked to allow airflow.
I suggest removing electronics such as fish finders to prevent water condensation from building up under screens and such.
For fixed seats and coverings, a coating of protectant such as Armor-All helps prevent dry rot and cracking.
Boats that are stored with covers on them present their own challenges. If the cover is too tight, moisture is trapped and mildew can grow without air circulation. Too loose, rain can enter exposed areas. A cover keeps sun from fading fiberglass and plastic but also prevents the drying process.
Ninety-nine percent of all covers are 'weather resistant,' not 'waterproof, Tenting the cover by placing something under the cover to raise it will allow rain to run off and not pool] is a good idea. A product like No-Damp placed inside the cover will collect moisture trapped under the cover.
Boats with freshwater systems such as sinks, showers or washdowns should have the water drained and replaced with a biodegradable antifreeze. The antifreeze can be flushed out in the spring.
Trailers need care, too
Trailers may not need as much attention as some other components, but there are some steps that can prevent season-beginning headaches.
The very least a man should do his grease his wheel bearings, If they have rust in the fall, they'll have even more in the spring. Also, park the trailer wheels on wood to keep moisture off the tires. Repairs to lights can wait till the spring, as more problems may crop during storage.
Winterizing a boat is not that expensive, unless you fail to do it.
If you don't winterize it, Mother Nature will take care of it for you, "In the spring, you'll be meeting your banker to take care of it.[/size][/font]
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-in-cheek adage is meant to refer to the constant maintenance, fuel and accessories that can drain cash in a hurry. But the adage can be especially prophetic after the boating season ends for all but the most ardent anglers and outdoors enthusiasts. Woe be to the boat owner who fails to winterize his boat.
Winterizing is important because the average person doesn't fish 12 months a year, And if you own a stern drive or ski boat, it's absolutely the thing do.
The biggest reason to winterize is to protect the engine from freezing to prevent cracked blocks and manifolds.
Having an outboard winterized at a dealer will cost from $60 to $100, inboard or stern-drive engines will cost more depending upon the number of cylinders, but $130 to $175 is a good ballpark figure. Inboard and stern-drive engines are much like automobile engines.
It's more critical for four-stroke inboards and stern drives than two-stroke engines, Most of your four-strokes contain water for cooling. Water expands when frozen, hence the danger of cracked engine blocks and other systems in the motor.
Do it yourself
Outboard owners handy with a wrench can winterize at home by adding fuel conditioner or stabilizer to gas, changing gearcase oil, lubricating cables and propeller shaft, draining engine and lower unit, and inducing "fogging oil" to the cylinders to prevent rust. The basics are the same for outboards from one to eight cylinders.
If you don't add fuel conditioner and run it for 15 to 20 minutes, you'll end up with a $300 carburetor rebuild. I have seen boats that gummed up after 90 days, and boats that didn't after two years [without fuel conditioner].
Fuel stabilizer prevents fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Fogging oil can be administered while the engine is running by spraying it into the air intakes of the carburetor(s) or the electronic fuel injection system. Removing the sparkplugs and spraying a quick blast of fogging oil into the cylinders while turning over the engine by hand is a good idea.
Changing the oil and gear lube while winterizing has several benefits.
If you wait to change either of them until the spring of the year, all of the crud will have settled into the bottom of the gear case or the oil pan,
If you find that winterizing a motor is more than you want to handle, take your boat to a dealer.
We have a saying around here, when a man brings in a $5,000 motor that froze up,Well, he saved himself $100.
One big thing is that a lot of people don't believe they need to winterize if the boat is kept in a garage. I have seen a lot of garage-kept boats with cracked blocks.
Motors are not the only part of the boat package that can benefit from winterizing. Batteries need TLC as well.
The ideal situation is to remove the battery and store it between 35 and 75 degrees, It's not necessary to store batteries on wood slats. Modern batteries won't discharge through concrete like old batteries used to.
I advise boaters to trim the outdrive all the way down before removing the battery because there is no power to trim the motor after the battery is removed. Label all battery wires and cables to make reconnection easier when re-installing.
Make sure to lubricate the steering linkage on outboard motors, as it will be exposed to the elements in the winter.
Don't forget the hull
Hulls can benefit from winterizing as well. The No. 1 thing to do is to remove any drain plugs for storage.
I have seen boats and the tires on the trailer were almost flat because water collected in the hull,. A big boat can hold hundreds of gallons of water in the hull.
If the boat has been moored in a slip all season, some marine growth may have grown on the hull. It's much easier to remove growth while it is wet than after it has dried.
Waxing the hull on fiberglass boats protects the gel coat from ultraviolet rays and prevents the "chalky" look that's expensive to fix, I also advised removing any seat cushions and storing them inside, and leaving storage compartments such as rod lockers open or cracked to allow airflow.
I suggest removing electronics such as fish finders to prevent water condensation from building up under screens and such.
For fixed seats and coverings, a coating of protectant such as Armor-All helps prevent dry rot and cracking.
Boats that are stored with covers on them present their own challenges. If the cover is too tight, moisture is trapped and mildew can grow without air circulation. Too loose, rain can enter exposed areas. A cover keeps sun from fading fiberglass and plastic but also prevents the drying process.
Ninety-nine percent of all covers are 'weather resistant,' not 'waterproof, Tenting the cover by placing something under the cover to raise it will allow rain to run off and not pool] is a good idea. A product like No-Damp placed inside the cover will collect moisture trapped under the cover.
Boats with freshwater systems such as sinks, showers or washdowns should have the water drained and replaced with a biodegradable antifreeze. The antifreeze can be flushed out in the spring.
Trailers need care, too
Trailers may not need as much attention as some other components, but there are some steps that can prevent season-beginning headaches.
The very least a man should do his grease his wheel bearings, If they have rust in the fall, they'll have even more in the spring. Also, park the trailer wheels on wood to keep moisture off the tires. Repairs to lights can wait till the spring, as more problems may crop during storage.
Winterizing a boat is not that expensive, unless you fail to do it.
If you don't winterize it, Mother Nature will take care of it for you, "In the spring, you'll be meeting your banker to take care of it.[/size][/font]
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