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Nymph rig
#1
So Ive been struggling lately nymphing and just curious how you guys rig up your flies and line for nymphing. At about this point Ill take Ill the help I can get! [bobdumb]
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#2
I like to keep things simple 7 to 9 feet leader, larger fly first then smaller fly tied to the bend of the larger fly. One to two split shots 8 to 12 inches form the larger fly.

If that not working I tie a larger fly to the leader then make a overhand knot about 8 to 12 inch up the leader then tie some tippet above the knot then tie in a smaller fly
Couple split shots 6 to 8 inches up form the larger fly.

And last but no least theirs the provo bouncer, search the forum for provo bouncer.
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#3
Yup, those are pretty much the standard rig: small fly on the end, a foot or so of tippet tied to a second nymph (usually a bit larger size), then a split shot or two and finally an indicator higher up. Set the indicator at twice the water depth. (i.e. in three feet of water, set the indicator six feet above the top fly.)

The "Provo bouncer" kinda turns that upside down and uses the split shot on the very end (tie an overhand knot to keep it from sliding off the line when you cast) then a fly, then a short tippet section and the top fly. Some say this casts a lot better with less tangling, and if the shot snags you can pull it off without losing either fly. It works.
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#4
Ok those are both ways I fished this saturday on the lower provo. Fished for 11 hrs and only one taker on a nymphing. I must not be getting deep enough or not enough weight. How do you judged how deep the water is if you cant tell just keep adjusting tell you start catching? I hate having to move the thingamabobber its is so freakin hard. I was using two weights most of the day, maybe I need more weight too. THanks for your help guys!
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#5
your sinkers should bump the bottom every couple casts with that rig. I quit using that rig years ago and have the sinkers at the end with 2 droppers 8" apart above the sinkers. less moss on the flies. usually not having enough weight on is the culprit.
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#6
Do you tie tags or just tie off hook bend. I guess I need to just put in more work and hope it pays off[bobConfused] if you tie tags what knot do you use?
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#7
You got just play with the weight I usually use one or two size bb split shots, the way I tell is if Im getting deep enough is if im getting a little but of moss on my flies every now then. If your getting snagged every cast then it too much weight.

Only other thing I can think of is fly selection there's lots of thinks hatching right now the middle just had a Green Drake Hatch not sure if it still going on but if your nymphing Olive hares ear, olive PT, AP nymph.

Brown Stones are also present, same nymphs
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#8
More weight? Perhaps. I teach people to watch the indicator and the bubbles. If the indicator is moving a little slower than the bubbles you're doing okay. If the indicator comes to a complete stop "read: gets caught on the bottom" a lot then you have too much weight for sure. But if your rig never gets caught on the bottom then you almost certainly do not have enough weight.

When and how much to weight to use is one of the biggest pieces of the puzzle. Right up there with casting. I always use #4 lead weights. That way adding another #4 weight can often be the difference between success and getting skunked.

I never really moved my thingamabobber unless I got into some seriously faster/slower water. I would often take and or remove a #4 weight throughout the day. BTW I always started with 3.

Oh and once converted to the Provo Bounce Rig I never went back. Here's how I rigged it... 7.5 foot 4X leader. To the end of that I would tie my first fly. Right to the line I would tie a one foot piece of tippet. That's right right above the fly. An old timer taught me this on the provo years before I saw it online or heard of anywhere else. To the end of that tippet piece I tie a second fly. To that line with the second fly on it I tie a 6" piece of 7X tippet and put a knot on the end of that piece because that is where you are going to crimp, ever so gently the #4 weights I mentioned already.

Good luck and keep at there is a light at the end of the tunnel.
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#9
Awesome this is why I posted this Ill put all this to work here in the next couple weeks on the weeb. I hope it helps someone else as well, thanks for all the great info guys!
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#10
You should toss a #6-12 black woolly bugger with some flash then about 2-3ft more of tippet with a gray scud, zebra midge, or prince nymph.
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#11
Steve, I use a Davy Knot to tie on the fly. It's simple, quick, strong, and (most important) uses VERY little tippet. It uses up as little as half an inch of tippet material, whereas a clinch knot uses up twice that much. Changing flies can shorten a tippet to uselessness in no time with clinch knots. I can get three or four fly changes on a six-inch dropper with the Davy before I have to change droppers. I use back to back uni-knots to connect tippet to leader.

Here's a great website with animated knot lessons: http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/
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#12
Lots of good advise above. One thing I will add is try not using a tapered leader and just using straight 4 or 5x. I think this helps get the fly down quicker.
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#13
Ive been using a furled leader with 4x to the first fly and 5x for the dropper with two weights above the top fly
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#14
I am by no means Mr. flyflinger, but one thing I did when I was struggling with nymphing was to simplify. One fly, and careful attention to the weight applied and getting as good of a drift as possible. I also expect to bang the bottom quite a bit. It seems to help and the good results followed.

As you become more proficient, then add complexity like multiple flies.
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#15
I make double surgeon loops, first one is quit big. cut the tags 6" long, then make the second and cut to 6" by the time you tie the flies on they are 4" try to keep the spacing around 8" . tie a knot in the end so sinker stay on.
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#16
I do tags. That way doesn't matter where the big nymph or little nymph go. Never off the bend. Surgeon's Knot and Loops
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