Tips, Tricks, Tackle, Tools, Tactics, Toys, Techniques, and other Titillating Topics ... 2013

[Old_Coot]

Well, about this time each year when the board gets a little slow, I like to share a few tips-n-tricks that I have learned over the last year or so. Below are a few that I like. You may roll your eyes when you read them or you may see something that you too might want to try.

If you too have some cool tips or tricks, share them with everyone here. I know I'd love to see them.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Reel Labels:[/#0000ff][/font] If you have lots of rods and reels, sometimes it may get confusing as to what line weight is on what reel. I have found that using a label maker and labeling the reel with the line weight fixes that problem.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Rescue Throw Bag:[/#0000ff][/font] I like keeping a rescue throw bag very handy on my boat. We use to use them a lot when river rafting but I have never yet had to use the one on my boat. They are inexpensive to buy, take up very little space, and easy to use.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]On-Board Battery Charger:[/#0000ff][/font] I absolutely LOVE my on-board battery charger. No more uncovering batteries, dragging out the charger, hooking it up, and then reversing the project the next day. With an on-board charger, it is as simple as plugging in the extension cord to charge and unplugging it when done. I installed the charger at the same time that I installed my i-Pilot. What a great idea. Did the same on my brother’s boat.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Camera and Camcorder Prep:[/#0000ff][/font] Have you ever got that big 30 lb. fish in the boat and nobody on the boat knows how to operate your camera or camcorder? The idea here is for everyone to get familiar with the technology BEFORE someone catches the big one!

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Prevent Motor Water Freeze Up:[/#0000ff][/font] I remember pulling my boat to Bear Lake in the middle of the winter only to find that the pee stream was plugged with frozen water. It ruined my morning. To prevent this, try these tips: 1) when you are pulling your boat up the ramp after loading from a day of fishing, stop part way up the ramp, lower the motor(s) to the full down position, and with the boat in neutral, turn it on for about 3 seconds. Tip the motor up and go on your way. 2) Once home, again drop your motor to the down position for a couple of days before your next trip through the frigid temperatures.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Laminated Boat-Prep Check List:[/#0000ff][/font] One for “Before Leaving Home”. One for “Before Launching” and one for “Before Leaving for Home”. I know this sounds a bit anal but prior to using the checklists, I would sometimes (more often than I like to admit) forget to put the hitch padlock on, or unplug the lights before launching, or leave the bilge plug out, etc. Using my checklist allows me to enjoy the ride to the lake rather than wondering if I forgot something.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Cardboard insulation for my Little Chief Electric Smoker:[/#0000ff][/font] Since I do most of my fish and meat smoking in the cold months, I have discovered that insulating the smoker helps keep the temperature much more stable. I kept the box that the smoker came packaged in and modified it to allow for the pan door on the front and the power cord in the rear. I had to cut all four panels and add 2 inches of duct tape between each panel to make the final 4-pannel box big enough to easily slip down over the smoker. It really works good. Speaking of smoking, check out this [url "http://youtu.be/cBTptFyfe3c"][#0000bf]great video that BearLakeFishGuy (Scott Tolentino) put out on YouTube[/#0000bf][/url] on how to smoke whitefish.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Another smoking tip:[/#0000ff][/font] Wrap your drip pan in tin-foil before you ever use it. Then just throw away the foil after each use.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Keeping Count of Fish:[/#0000ff][/font] Have you ever had one of those 100 fish days at that Berry and wished you had a good way to keep track of how many fish you actually caught? Here’s an idea: Put a penny into a dish every time you catch one. Then, at the end of the day, just count the pennies.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Keep Braided Line From Freezing:[/#0000ff][/font] If you love your braided line and using mono isn’t your thing, but you still want to do some freezing cold weather fishing, consider gently spraying the braided line on the reel with WD-40. I have had very good luck with this trick. I am even able to cast 8 lb. test braid quite well if it sat over night with WD-40 sprayed on it. Hummmm … just what does “WD” stand for anyway?

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Getting a good hook set on Strawberry Cuts:[/#0000ff][/font] So often when fishing for cutthroats at the Berry, you will attempt to set the hook and “nadda”. Here is a trick that will improve your hook-set rate about 50%: Don’t set the hook immediately on the first nibble. Rather, drop the rod tip (line goes slack) for 2 seconds, THEN set the hook.


[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Getting Lead Head Into a Tiny Crappie Tube:[/#0000ff][/font] When I fish Bear Lake for the whitefish in December, I like to use those tiny Lit’l Hustler crappie tubes with a 1/6 oz. lead head. Getting the lead head in can really be hard if you try to put it in the same way you do with larger tubes. I have found that a much better way is to use SouthernPro’s “Fast Load” lead heads. The trick to using these fast load lead heads is to push the point of the hook into the front of the tiny tube and just keep pushing it until the lead head goes into the tube.

>>>>>>> The Wrong Way:

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>>>>>>>> The right way:

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(By the way ... this is my favorite whitefish lure.)


[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Stabilizing Your Underwater Fish TV Camera:[/#0000ff][/font] For years, while ice fishing, I and my brother would hang our underwater camera a foot off the bottom and aim the camera at our lures near the bottom. Inevitably, underwater currents or fish movement would make the camera turn and twist requiring us to make frequent cable adjustments. One day, when fishing with N.E.T.O. I noticed that his camera had a simple wire fashioned as a stand for his camera. With this home-made wire stand attached to his camera, he simply set it in place on the bottom and it stayed there all day. What a simple, but very clever idea!

[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]The Simplest of Ice Rod Holders:[/#0000ff][/font] A lunch cooler. Just set your cooler on the ice, open the lid, and walaa … a great rod holder.

[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Camouflage Your Cisco Net:[/#0000ff][/font] Last year we noticed that the cisco would be heading towards our silver colored nets. But rather than going over our nets, they would quickly do a stage left. So this year, we spray painted our nets camouflage colors of black, rust, and tan. This works MUCH better. The cisco go right over our nets now. However it is much harder for US to see our nets under water. We have to kind of guess when the cisco are over the nets and then lift. The net shown here hasn't been camoed yet. Last year, I broke the one I had painted.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Utah State Parks Passes:[/#0000ff][/font] I found out this year that you can actually check out Parks passes at any of the Davis County Libraries. I don’t know if that goes for other libraries throughout the state, but for me it came in handy when I needed one and couldn’t afford to buy one.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Fluorocarbon Leader Compromised by Soft Plastic Lures:[/#0000ff][/font] I learned the hard way that if soft plastic lures are allowed to stay in contact with mono or fluro leaders, the quality of the leader may become compromised. If you know everything is right (pound test, drag, knots, etc) and you are experiencing break-offs, you might be using leader that has been slightly damaged by the chemical reaction of soft plastic lures laying against it for a few days. As a rule, keep your soft plastics separate from your mono/fluro leaders.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Short Mack Rods:[/#0000ff][/font] I have been watching the famous Flaming Gorge mackinaw fishing guide TarponJim and his clients starting to use much shorter rods for mack fishing the last couple of years. So I had [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/community/community.cgi?do=user_page;pg=user_profile_view.html;username=utwalleye"][#0000ff]utwalleye[/#0000ff][/url] (Chuck) shorten one of mine. I tried it and loved it.

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So I had him make me a couple more.

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And then my brother had Chuck make four for him too.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Notice the white tip?[/#0000ff][/font] That white tip (about 1.5 inch) sure makes it eiser to see the light bites.

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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]Lip Gripper Flotation:[/#0000ff][/font] Man, I sure have lost a lot of lip-grippers to the drink over the last 15 years. That is until I added flotation to the tool. That flotation has saved it a couple of times.

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A big thanks to other folks who gave me some of the suggestions over the year.

--- Coot ---
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[kandersonSLC]

Great ideas and it always helps to have photos. For me, I need to put together a before-I-hit-the-road check list and add floats to equipment that can end up in the drink. Thanks for sharing.
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[OldTroller]

Thanks for sharing!
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[pookiebar]

great tips on all of that!

By the way WD stands for Water Displacement - Formula 40 []
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[Ton_Def]

Wow! Good stuff! That'll learn 'em! [laugh]
FYI - Davis and Weber counties no longer check out the State Parks pass. Bummer!
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[JiggyJus10]

The drip pan covered in foil, duh. But I haven't done it & have spent hours scraping and spraying oven cleaner on it to remove the burnt drippings. Foil will be much cheaper and easier. Another genius idea I heard from was to spray the racks with non stock spray in/over an open dishwasher.

I also like the Library park pass, thats nuts. What are the late fee's like? j/k

Keeping count of fish is a good new one (to me anyway). I only need change for a nickel. I lhave the paid version of the My Fishing Journal App & I love that.

Thanks for sharing this post & you tricks of the trade! !
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[SkunkedAgain]

Hey Coot great tips, thanks for passing them along. One thing I have done for counting fish that will keep your pennies from spilling is I picked up a golf stroke counter and its great. I sure found a 20 fish day was a lot more fish than it used to be when I was guestimating. Biggest problem is remembering to click it when the fishing is hot. Thanks again. J
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[pezvela]

Incredible! Thanks for taking the time and energy to put this all together. One more great reason to follow this forum; Good people sharing their knowledge and experience to make us all better anglers!
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[SBennett]

If you are going to turn over an outboard engine while it is out of the water, make sure it doesn't start. Water is the required lubricant to keep your water pump impeller blades from being ripped apart by the contact to the pump housing. It only takes a second or two for this to happen if the engine fires and jumps up to 700 rpm.
The easiest way to accomplish this is to take the safety clip out of your steering control box/ ignition switch. Just remember to put it back in so you don't get caught off guard wondering why your engine won't start next time you launch your boat.
Good luck and great fishing.
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[JLW]

I have done Old_Coots trick on pushing residual water out a bunch and never hurt the pump a bit. The houseing is stainless and smooth. If it ran dry for a long time it might melt the rubber pump but not in a few seconds. My thought is that it causes alot less damage then leaving water in it to freeze. Ice is water ruins things. Just my 2 cents...

Thanks for all the good ideas Old_Coot... Fishon
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[SBennett]

You are very correct about residual water ruining your water pump.
That is why you need to disable your motor from starting and crank it over for a couple seconds (without the motor starting) just like Coot mentioned to drain the pump.
Now you have the best of both worlds, a dry and non-burnt impeller/ housing.
Also remember to put your outboard in an upright position if you store it outdoors so that water does not accumulate and freeze behind the propeller. A cracked lower unit may result if you leave the motor in a tilt position.
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[sinergy]

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[Old_Coot]

[#000000][size 3][quote sinergy]... Im not so sure WD-40 on your braided line is the best choice.

1 WD-40 can weaken your line over time and 2 I don't think its the best thing for water quality to dunk a line that been saturated with WD-40.[/quote][/size][/#000000]
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[#000000][size 3]Sinergy, when I first attempted to use WD-40 as a water/ice displacement, I was concerned about some kind of damage to my braided line. Five years later, still no visable affect.[/size][/#000000]
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[#000000][size 3]As for reducing the water quality as a result, I see your concern but I think that what little polution this practice contributes is extreemly minute compared to all the boat motors and their exaust on the lakes. But that's just my take on it.[/size][/#000000]
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[#000000][size 3]I was pretty sure someone would bring this up for discussion. I have never talked with anyone about it and just been kind of on my own with the concept. So thanks for your point of view.[/size][/#000000]
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[#000000][size 3]--- Coot ---[/size][/#000000]
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[WiperMac]

Coot Quote. [font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000ff]On-Board Battery Charger:[/#0000ff][/font] I absolutely LOVE my on-board battery charger. No more uncovering batteries, dragging out the charger, hooking it up, and then reversing the project the next day. With an on-board charger, it is as simple as plugging in the extension cord to charge and unplugging it when done. I installed the charger at the same time that I installed my i-Pilot. What a great idea. Did the same on my brother’s boat.






Awesome post and all great ideas Coot. Only one thing I'd do differently is not plug your onboard charger to an extension cord. I had the same brand charger (2 bank 30 amp) on my boat and I burned it up by doing just that. I called up Guest customer service and the first thing they asked is "did you have it plugged into a extension cord". They did warranty it but what a hassle.

Not sure if I had problems because it was a bigger unit or what, but I do know it took me off the water for a weekend. The cord used was heavy duty so I don't think amps was the problem either. Who knows.[crazy] Again, great post buddy!
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[Old_Coot]

[quote WiperMac]Only one thing I'd do differently is not plug your onboard charger to an extension cord.[/quote]

You've got me scratching my head on this one Trevor. How else is one suposed to get power to the charger? Plugging an extention cord into them is exactly what they were designed for! For example; I drive to the Gorge and fish all day and plan to stay for 3 or 4 days over night at a motel. Every night after fishing I go plug in my charger (with an extention cord) to the wall outlet and I'm good to go the next morning for a day of i-Pilot use. So I am . Again I ask, how else is one suposed to get AC power to the charger if not through an extention cord?

Let's talk more Trevor ... here or offline. You've got me very curious as to what you (or Quest) mean.
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[Fowl-Hook]

Extension cord should be as short as possible.
High quality cord with the biggest wire you can find like at least 12ga.Bigger is better, not the red light special.

This Item would be a fine Christmas Gift!!
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[WiperMac]

[font "Calibri"]I Know Ralph, it sounded completely crazy to me too. For me my fix was to remount the charger right at the very top of my rear jump seat just under the engine compartment hatch. This still gives about 5 ½’ of cord to plug into a wall outlet. [/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Prior to pouring my RV pad I ran an electrical conduit out to the edge of the property so I could plug my travel trailer in without a cord. I now leave the trailer up at the Gorge full time so it’s opened up the pad to my boat. I just pull within 2 ½-3’ of the fence and plug directly into the 30 Amp outlet box. [/font]
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[font "Calibri"]On the rare occasion I have used the HEAVY duty cord bought for the travel trailer but I paid over a $150 for that beast. Not real practical unless you already have one. [/font]
[url "http://www.homelectrical.com/100-ft-yellow-polarsolar-extension-cord-103-sjeow.col-01789.1.html?utm_source=Nextag&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=CSE"][font "Calibri"]http://www.homelectrical.com/100-ft-yellow-polarsolar-extension-cord-103-sjeow.col-01789.1.html?utm_source=Nextag&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=CSE[/font][/url][font "Calibri"] [/font]
[font "Calibri"] [/font]
[font "Calibri"]Don’t call me crazy, I’m just relaying the info given when I toasted mine. [/font]
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[Old_Coot]

Ok ... wow ... thought I was the one going crazy there for a minute. So, let me get this straight, from what I'm reading from you and Dog-lover, we still "use an extension cord" ... just have to make sure it is 10 or 12 gauge and as short as reasonably possible. Right?

Thanks for the clarification.

--- Coot ---
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[WiperMac]

[font "Calibri"]Shorter and heavier the better. But do away with it all together if possible.[/font]
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[Old_Coot]

[quote WiperMac][font "Calibri"]Shorter and heavier the better. But do away with it all together if possible.[/font][/quote]

Ok Trev, I'm back to square one on this: How would one get AC to his on-board charger if one does not use an extention cord? (Unless you mean to just do away with the on-board charger itself.)

(Go easy on me here ... I'm 60 years old and my mind ain't what it use to be.)

--- Coot ---
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