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SALMON CONSOMME WITH CREME FRAICHE AND SALMON CAVIAR (food)
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The créme fraîche topping melts fast, so to make the most of its fabulous taste and texture, add it just before eating.
Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

For consommé
5 to 5 1/2 lb of salmon carcasses (heads, bones, and tails)
4 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise
3 celery ribs, chopped
2 onions, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, sliced
6 fresh parsley stems (without leaves)
1 fresh thyme sprig
5 coriander seeds
1 bay leaf (not California)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 (750-ml) bottle dry white wine
3 1/2 qt cold water
5 large egg whites, shells reserved

For topping
1/2 cup créme fraîche
3 tablespoons water
2 oz salmon caviar (roe) or other caviar

Garnish: fresh dill sprigs

Accompaniment: black pepper cornmeal crisps


Special equipment: cheesecloth

Make consommé: Rinse salmon carcasses under cold water. Remove any blood spots and discard any gills (they look like the underside of a mushroom cap). Transfer salmon to a 10- to 12-quart pot.

Wash leeks well in a bowl of cold water and lift from water to a colander to drain. Add leeks and remaining consommé ingredients except egg whites and eggshells to pot with salmon. Bring to a boil, covered, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, skimming any foam, 40 minutes.

Pour stock through a sieve lined with a triple thickness of cheesecloth into a 6-quart saucepan. Boil until reduced to about 9 cups, 15 to 20 minutes, and skim any fat from surface.

Whisk egg whites in a large bowl until foamy. Crumble reserved shells into whites and slowly whisk in half of hot stock. Gradually whisk egg white mixture into stock in saucepan and bring to a steady boil over moderate heat, whisking constantly. Boil, undisturbed, until all of whites rise to top and stock is clear, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 3 minutes.

Pour stock through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a bowl. Then pour stock through a paper towel–lined sieve into a 3-quart saucepan. (You’ll have about 8 cups.) Reheat and season with salt.

Make topping: Whisk together créme fraîche and water in a small bowl set over a larger bowl of hot water until it reaches room temperature, then continue whisking until smooth and forms soft mounds.

Serve consommé with dollops of créme fraîche and salmon caviar.

Cooks’ notes:

• We recommend calling your fish market a few days ahead to order the salmon carcasses.

• Consommé can be made 3 days ahead. Cool completely before chilling, covered, or freeze 1 month.

Makes about 8 cups.[/size][/font]
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